Butler tower cap and bearing

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Mike Hage
Posts: 148
Joined: Mon Dec 21, 2020 12:37 pm
Location: Gibbs

Butler tower cap and bearing

Post by Mike Hage »

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Everything is worn out on this mill any ideas? How critical is getting the surfaces true for the bearing? Also the bearing height will affect the trueing spider. I'm guessing the bearing to about 3/4" thick?
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Mike Hage
Posts: 148
Joined: Mon Dec 21, 2020 12:37 pm
Location: Gibbs

Re: Butler tower cap and bearing

Post by Mike Hage »

Does anyone have a more intact bearing i could get dimensions from?
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windybob
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Location: Ames Oklahoma

Re: Butler tower cap and bearing

Post by windybob »

Wish I could help you. Mine is still on the stub tower, which is on the pile, which is on the trailer, which is on the lot. I won't be able to get it taken off anytime soon.

If it's anything like a Dempster turntable cup, it will be tempered cast. Very difficult to machine. Maybe possible to trim one of those down by cutting with a grinder? I do that often. Would need some measurements of what you have to see if it's possible.
Memory plant.... Change or clean the air filter in your air compressor! Mine runs 1/4 as much, and tools run better.
Mike Hage
Posts: 148
Joined: Mon Dec 21, 2020 12:37 pm
Location: Gibbs

Re: Butler tower cap and bearing

Post by Mike Hage »

Oh boy! How can I tell if its tempered cast or not? What about filling some of those grooves the bearing sits on with JB Weld? The bolt holes that hold it to the tower are slopped out too. A welder friend of mine said something about not preheating cast because you lose the carbon in the iron. He said its better to just weld it and peen the weld pushing the heat into the cast and then letting it cool slowly in a bed of zonolite or sand. I'm keeping close watch for a parts mill. They are around, but scarce
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windybob
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Location: Ames Oklahoma

Re: Butler tower cap and bearing

Post by windybob »

Not sure how to tell. But I did have a shop put a Dempster cup on a lathe one time to trim it down. The guy said it squealed and squalled and make all kinds of racket. I guess you could take a hacksaw to it. If it knocks all the teeth off, you could figure it's tempered.

I weld cast all the time. Rarely preheat. Never a sand pack. Weld up bolt holes a little with nickel if they are bad. NO JB WELD for me. Weld up the TT seat with nickel, grind it down flat.

These are not engine blocks, transmission casings, or the Mona Lisa. They are slow-speed machines, most tolerances are 'feel', or 'eyeball.' (MOST, not all.) No need to 'blue' the gears.

Nickel welding, is a common fix for many issues on these. New shafts, are usually standard cold-roll, but there are exceptions.

Don't know about losing carbon, but I have lost patience before. I think that's fairly common.
Memory plant.... Change or clean the air filter in your air compressor! Mine runs 1/4 as much, and tools run better.
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windybob
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Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:59 pm
Location: Ames Oklahoma

Re: Butler tower cap and bearing

Post by windybob »

I should mention that when I do weld cast, I tend to do a "cold weld". I'm no expert by any means, but I have learned to weld a bit, stop, chip, count to 20 and then resume in the same manner. Well, maybe not 20, but you get the idea. I have also learned that you can't weld really thin cast either. Brazing usually works for this.
Memory plant.... Change or clean the air filter in your air compressor! Mine runs 1/4 as much, and tools run better.
Mike Hage
Posts: 148
Joined: Mon Dec 21, 2020 12:37 pm
Location: Gibbs

Re: Butler tower cap and bearing

Post by Mike Hage »

Never a sand pack? What do you use? Zonolite?
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windybob
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Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:59 pm
Location: Ames Oklahoma

Re: Butler tower cap and bearing

Post by windybob »

Nothing. Just the air around it. I don't burn it up, that hurts it. Just take it easy. Don't want it too hot in one spot. Or that's what I do anyway. Been working for a whole bunch of years. Like I say, I'm not a pro.
Memory plant.... Change or clean the air filter in your air compressor! Mine runs 1/4 as much, and tools run better.
Mike Hage
Posts: 148
Joined: Mon Dec 21, 2020 12:37 pm
Location: Gibbs

Re: Butler tower cap and bearing

Post by Mike Hage »

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I picked up these rods at Praxair my local welding supplier. And I found this old can of flux but I've glass beaded everything so it should be clean. You spoke of nickle rod maybe better for a structural weld? How easy is it to shape? Can I blast it after and make it look like it was never welded? So you don't preheat or pack it in something to let it cool overnight? Sorry to bug you but I know just about enough to be dangerous which is nothing
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Mike Hage
Posts: 148
Joined: Mon Dec 21, 2020 12:37 pm
Location: Gibbs

Re: Butler tower cap and bearing

Post by Mike Hage »

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this is the wooden rod swivel. Theres a 3/4 inch bar that goes up to the walking beam and then a small flat bar that goes to the vane pullout and brake. Worn all to hell not sure where to start on that one.
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