From the farm Baker AC rebuild.

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Gunner
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Re: From the farm Baker AC rebuild.

Post by Gunner »

Ok the press worked crank shaft is out. Now for the pinion gear! Took the cotter pin out and made a bolt expander to put some pressure on it, with no luck. Any tricks/advice here?
Thanks in advance.
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windybob
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Re: From the farm Baker AC rebuild.

Post by windybob »

Ok, your press is a good idea, but wrong dynamics. That gear has limited movement anyway, because it hits the case front and backside. So, the case will hold the gear when the hub and shaft comes out.

Having the shaft move a little on the gear is good if possible. There is half-moon key under the gear, and on shaft. Nothing else hold it on, but friction/rust. You need to pull the hub /shaft from the case. Do NOT whack the hub on the outer rim. Try to put a long rod down to the center of the hub, and hit there. That's the thickest part. Penetrating oil should help the gear slide.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number.
Gunner
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Location: Tx

Re: From the farm Baker AC rebuild.

Post by Gunner »

Ok, finally got everything out. Posting a picture of everything that shows wear. Tell me what you all think — trying to determine if I can use it or if it needs to be replaced. First two pictures is the Pinion Gear. Just wore on the one side. Next two are each end of the Pitman Guide Hinge Pin. Last two are the same side of the Crank Gear Shaft. Appreciate any help/thoughts. Thanks.
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Gunner
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Re: From the farm Baker AC rebuild.

Post by Gunner »

The Wheel Hub Shaft shows very little wear and the brass bushings are showing to be half wore through. Might as well put new bushings in it since it all apart. Thoughts?
Appreciate the help!
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windybob
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Re: From the farm Baker AC rebuild.

Post by windybob »

Ok. Replace the shaft for the rocker arm. Should be standard size cold rolled. Just drill a couple holes. If it doesn't fit snug (not tight) seal around the case with something.

Bull gear shaft, either reverse it, or just get a new one. Should be standard sized cold rolled. If this does not fit snug (not tight) it will leak. If it does fit snug, it will leak. Clean the case after the shaft is installed, and seal with a good sealer. See how a new shaft fits in the crank gear. A little play is fine, but too much play, and you might bore and sleeve the gear these are usually not worn too bad.

Pinion gear looks okay to me, you can reverse for better wear on the better side of the teeth.

You do want to replace the bushings. These may need a bit of trimming for a nice slide in the case. The rear one does not protrude inside the case, and the front one needs to leave room for the oil slinger. If the oil slinger does not look like a new spring, or have real good ridges on it, (or if it looks rather flat) replace it. the slinger fits between the hub and bearing, so there is a gap in the snout before the bearing. Make sure the oil return (under the bearing ) is CLEAN. There is also a groove around the front of the snout to catch the oil off the slinger. Make sure its clean. When you install the bearing, the bottom of the snout should BARELY clear the bearing. If the old bearing is worn too much the oil slinger will drag the snout, and wear it down. I weld a large number of these up.

Clean up the faces of the pinion. Get a new key. Test fit everything before final assembly. Gear should slide on shaft easily, but maybe have slight interferance on the key. Thats okay, but you don't want it too tight.
I am surprised at how many keys I need to slightly dress to make the fit good.

Pitman arm can be welded and turned. Or turned and brass sleeved. The rocker arm has places that wear so see what kid of fit you have there. The rocker arm where the pumprod swivel head goes on is a bad wear area. This are usually needs attention. Where the pitman rides the rocker arm is another wear area.

The bull gear has 3 holes for the pitman. Pick one that gets you a nice fit.

Another note.... WHen you test fit everything, get some extra washers for the mainshaft/rear bearing area. It looks like the pinion has been riding the case, and lack of endplay is important on these mills for several reasons.On about half of these I build, I use 3 washers in that area. I usually wind up with at least one on the front side of the cotter key, and 2 behind it for bearing protection. You don't want the cotter key getting against the back bearing. The extra washer in front of the cotter takes care of the endplay, which greatly affects the brake action of these mills. Also, the extra washer keeps the hub from riding the snout.

I think that covers things. How is your oil pan? The are usually in 2 pieces. If not, good. I rides barely above the bullgear, and barely below the rocker arm on the down stroke.

Also, make sure you have a good gasket under the helmet.

Holler back if you need.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number.
Smax
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Re: From the farm Baker AC rebuild.

Post by Smax »

Gunner i bought a a.c. Recently for the tower if you are needing any parts. The case was not any good but there might be other usable parts i will open it up tomorrow and take a look at internals
Gunner
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Re: From the farm Baker AC rebuild.

Post by Gunner »

Thanks Windybob.
A few questions. I’m not following you on the oil pan deal. Can you please explain more.
On the washers for the main shaft. Are you saying to put one in front of the cotter key behind the pinion gear and two towards the back behind the cotter key in front of the short bearing. (There was only one washer in the back between the cotter key and short bearing when disassembled). If so does the pinion gear keep wearing into the casing on the front side towards the hub because that’s where it showed the wear on the face?
My pitman arm is wore where it goes into the crank gear. The other side is fine. Tried a different hole still has a lot of slop. Can this be bought new? I don’t have a way to turn something with a bend in it.
The oil slinger/spring. I guess mine is long gone. I have a washer up inside the hub. Picture attached.
Last question. The part list and diagram is the only thing I have to go by. Do you or someone have something that shows how the mechanism works with the swivels, chain, and governor spring.
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windybob
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Re: From the farm Baker AC rebuild.

Post by windybob »

Okay. Your case snout looks fine from what I can see.
The oil slinger on the old mills is (cast) or steel. Supposed to have ridges on it like a spring. It slides off the shaft. A new one is in order, yours is worn.
The oil pan item I don't see on the list at the moment. Let me look on the shelf and see what I have. They might be different in an AC than a WC head. It guides the oil from the dripping off of the oil ring to the snout bearing opening in the head. Usually the pan is an L shape, 2 pieces, riveted together.. It bolts thru the case with 1 bolt. Maybe a little different with an AC. but same principle.
Yes the gear rides on the case when the brake is applied. The brake shoves the shaft and hub outward, and the gear takes that thrust. when a washer is placed between the gear and cotter key this causes the gear to be closer to the case for the trust. A lot of WC / WB heads have 2 washers, some have 1. It really doesn't matter, as long as things line up, and endplay is minor. I've even needed to put a thin washer between the bull gear and case on occasion.
Ask Dan about a new pitman. They are forged, but he may have new ones. If one side is worn, usually the other side is also, but usually not as much.
I will describe the pull-in action and hookup in another post. Looks good so far.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number.
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windybob
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Re: From the farm Baker AC rebuild.

Post by windybob »

Here is the oiler or (oil pan) for an AC and a WC mill. I see in your picture that inside an AC head there is a valley cast into the case for the oil to run down in for the snout bearing. No such casting area in a WC, ergo the little spout on the oil pan. The AC has an elongated trough from the oil ring carrier.
8 ft oilers.jpeg
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Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number.
Gunner
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Joined: Thu Apr 02, 2020 9:14 pm
Location: Tx

Re: From the farm Baker AC rebuild.

Post by Gunner »

This is what came out. See pictures. I don’t have the other smaller piece. I took another picture of the end of the snout. If this angle helps.
Question. Is the ring that’s behind the hub on the shaft? Is that what’s left of my oil slinger? And if so that will need to come off right?
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