Vintage Windmill and Wind Generator Forum

cmarr6

I have been involved in building several wooden towers for six foot Aermotor mills. Regardless of size, the process should be the same. Also, constructed a wooden tower for a B702 using upright treated pine timbers 6"x6"x 24' with a 5 ft stub tower.

After having visited with many windmillers and viewing wooden towers over the years, it really became obvious that you don't really need "construction plans". Build to suit you taste . Start by selecting the size of timber you plan to use. 4"x 4" treated pine from Home Depot or other lumber suppliers, using the length you desire, works well for 6 and 8 foot mills. 4x4x2 and 4x4x4 treated pine for cross-bracing and girts placed and bolted with galvanized carriage bolts, nuts and washers, again to suit you eye. Start by laying out 2 upright timbers on flat surface such as car port, garage or driveway. The angle of the stub tower will determine the spread at the top and bottom of the wooden tower, generally speaking, although some other dimensions can be achieved with appropriate cuts in the timber tops. My six foot Aermotor towers are 5.5 ft. square at the bottom but you can achieve a "Nebraska wide spread" using other construction techniques. See the big book on American windmills or other publications.

After laying out one side of tower and bolted together, flip it over and duplicate the other side following the dimensions used on the first side. Then you spread the tops and bottoms of the two sides to create duplicates for the other two sides, again keeping the stub tower in position to bolt the four legs to the stub. A good power miter saw, such as DeWalts, will do great to duplicate the angle cuts for the girts and cross-braces and of course, a good re-chargeable drill for the galvanized bolts.

There are issues to worked out but this should get you started.

Good luck,

Larry Chilton
Georgetown, Tx

This is around 15 ft , and then the stub on it. Maybe give you a visual on it. Fairly basic. About a 3 1/2 ft or so spread at the bottom. I know...the platform is too low. Oh well.

Main thing to remember you start at the top useing your stub tower to get the spread then the bottom will follow. Windy's picture is perfect.

It's just one kind of design. It was already made, so I had to tweak the stub tower on. Wayne's idea is the best on where to start.

Thanks for the info. I guess I will just start building and hope it comes out right. But you know ole MR. Murphy! I can report that a Flint @ Walling Star 37 fan DOES fit on a Monitor WC box. But not without a little modifications. The rear arms of the fan bolted right up to the outer holes on the rear arms. Had to cut off the inner holes. But the front arms required trimming a couple of inches and redrilling the holes. But it did fit and seems to be operating smoothly. Not up in the air yet but let it blow in the wind while still on the stand and seemed fine.

Here is a wood tower schematic from America West. Not sure if this will help you or not, maybe someone on here can comment. Thanks

https://awwasc.com/sites/giconpumps.com ... ematic.pdf

The main issue with Monitor W mills, is that due to the short snout, the wheel runs very close to the tower legs. Monitor wheel can be re-made, or even tweaked to help this situation out, when the front bearing gets wear in it.
As far as the 37 wheel, that's great that it fits. Now, the true test of how close it runs to the tower legs will be the factor that separates the cream from the butter.

we had it on a stand as you can see in the pic. the stand was made to pretty closely replicate the angle of the tower legs. there was at least 6 inches of clearance between the blades and the legs of the stand. dont think there will be any problem.

Listen to the advice Larry posted earlier !
I have seen his wooden towers, they are outstanding !
Look good in the front yard. He has several installed + more waiting .
Mike B
New Braunfels TX