Flint & Walling 12
- Peter vk
- Posts: 342
- Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2018 11:30 am
- Location: Chesterville Ontario Canada
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Re: Flint & Walling 12
Nice job! Mike
Re: Flint & Walling 12
I had none of this stuff, vane brackets, pull out spring, rods and with your help I built it all and it works thank you
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- Posts: 2312
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2021 4:06 pm
- Location: Alcove N.Y.i buy and restore
Re: Flint & Walling 12
Great job Mike now getter up in the wind and send a pic.
Re: Flint & Walling 12
Very nice Mike.
Re: Flint & Walling 12
Looks Great Mike!!
Question on the 2 pieces for the spring attachment to the vane, did you make those off original measurements? If so would you mind sharing. Obviously from the earlier photos/discussion ... mine was set up differently.
Question on the 2 pieces for the spring attachment to the vane, did you make those off original measurements? If so would you mind sharing. Obviously from the earlier photos/discussion ... mine was set up differently.
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Thanks,
Ed
Ed
Re: Flint & Walling 12
Those pieces were just a guess. I looked at those 2 pics you sent me. It looks like it's just to the edge of the vane. I just made the bracket out of a chunk of heavy angle. Never could find a close up pic of that. Seems to work
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Re: Flint & Walling 12
So I've got this mill mostly put together on a stub tower. Gonna get all the bugs worked out before it goes up. I noticed the tail only swings partly out to unfurl. Not 90 degrees to the wheel. There are stops on the top tailbone and brake lever casting that prevent it from going out any further. The vane hook rod doesn't even catch the latch bracket. ?????? Is this the way its supposed to be? I know the main shaft and vane pivot is off center on purpose but I thought the vane has to make a right angle with the wheel. So the rod stop is essentially doing nothing. Help!
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Re: Flint & Walling 12
Mike - I had not noticed this, but was just looking at mine and it will end up the same way (once tailbone and vane are on). Those two stops are keeping it about 80*-85* or so.
Thanks,
Ed
Ed
Re: Flint & Walling 12
Yes and there's no other way those can go on. Does your stop rod stick out about an inch and a half as well? I mean it still turns when the wind blows. Are any other mills like this? I was sure it had to be 90 degrees to be properly running. I'm sure that's why the top tailbone casting always breaks. That's a lot to ask from that little bump. Also it doesn't utilize the shock spring in the sheave stand bumper casting 1482?
Re: Flint & Walling 12
Mike - I have not had my vane fully assembled ... so I don't know. I don't have it in a stand big enough to put the vane on (I have that stand set up with Aermotor mast pipe right now).
I cannot remember, did you make your "stop rod"? Lift up on that break arm casting (so that the bottom stop goes on top of the pulley mount that it hits) and see where the tailbone is when its up against the stop rod.
Maybe I will make up a stand tonight or tomorrow and play around. I'm off tomorrow and tired of trying to whittle wooden bearings for my IXLs.
I cannot remember, did you make your "stop rod"? Lift up on that break arm casting (so that the bottom stop goes on top of the pulley mount that it hits) and see where the tailbone is when its up against the stop rod.
Maybe I will make up a stand tonight or tomorrow and play around. I'm off tomorrow and tired of trying to whittle wooden bearings for my IXLs.
Thanks,
Ed
Ed