Hello all
I have a windmill that has been on the family farm since I can remember and I am now 60. I purchased the farm and want to be sure the windmill stands for many more years. I was finally able to rent a boom lift to see if I could figure out why the windmill would not pivot freely with the wind direction and confirmed my suspicions that the bearing was gone. As seen in the picture, the top race sits on the bottom flange mounting bolts. I assume I will need to purchase a new top and bottom race along with the bearing. If anyone has a lead on these parts that would be appreciated. Then I will need to figure out how to change the bearing. I assume I will need to rent a crane of some sort and pull out of the socket but wondering what needs to be removed in order to be able to pull the workings up and out to change the parts. Does anyone have any input?
Also of course without the proper equipment this will be quite a job, does anyone know of windmill repairmen services in the Wisconsin area that maybe I could save myself the trouble and safety concerns?
Thank you in advance for your suggestions. Regards
Change swivel bearing on Baker Mfg WC 21
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Fxrtharley
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2022 10:35 am
- Location: Marshall wi
Change swivel bearing on Baker Mfg WC 21
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Re: Change swivel bearing on Baker Mfg WC 21
Welcome to the forum. Does the wheel spin?
Baker Monitor Model WC, with the C = 8’, the WC21 is just the bonnet part #. You might try new or slightly larger ball bearings. There could be spacers in there too between the ball bearings. If so, you can put all ball bearings in there. Those ball bearings were probably screaming for a turn of that grease-cup I see in the photo. (Edited: added photo of WB balls bearings w/ spacers)
You’ll likely get better advice on here, but…I have before on a non-windy day, gotten a lighter floor jack up to the platform and used it and some cross boards I brought up to lift from the bottom of the mast pipe and pushed up enough to separate the upper and lower race. As I like my fingers, I used needle nose pliers to manipulate the ball bearings as I didn’t want the upper race and gearbox to come down on my fingers. Others will have better advice for you, but a safety harness is generally a universal recommendation.
You might make sure other parts aren’t binded up too and grease too. If all you are wanting is for it to swivel on the race, otherwise you might consider bringing it all down for a rebuild and/or see what is under the WC21 bonnet as to IF oil is in there and/or damage within the gearbox. Maybe someone will recommend a windmiller in your area.
Baker Monitor Model WC, with the C = 8’, the WC21 is just the bonnet part #. You might try new or slightly larger ball bearings. There could be spacers in there too between the ball bearings. If so, you can put all ball bearings in there. Those ball bearings were probably screaming for a turn of that grease-cup I see in the photo. (Edited: added photo of WB balls bearings w/ spacers)
You’ll likely get better advice on here, but…I have before on a non-windy day, gotten a lighter floor jack up to the platform and used it and some cross boards I brought up to lift from the bottom of the mast pipe and pushed up enough to separate the upper and lower race. As I like my fingers, I used needle nose pliers to manipulate the ball bearings as I didn’t want the upper race and gearbox to come down on my fingers. Others will have better advice for you, but a safety harness is generally a universal recommendation.
You might make sure other parts aren’t binded up too and grease too. If all you are wanting is for it to swivel on the race, otherwise you might consider bringing it all down for a rebuild and/or see what is under the WC21 bonnet as to IF oil is in there and/or damage within the gearbox. Maybe someone will recommend a windmiller in your area.
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Re: Change swivel bearing on Baker Mfg WC 21
Normal ball size for 8 ft Monitors are 5/8. we carry 11/16 balls also, in case the races are worn some.
Need to take out the bushing that's in the bottom of the neckpipe, held in by 1 bolt above the stormstay. If you are REALLY lucky the bushing is not rusted in, and locked up tight. If it slides out, great. bunji cord the upper turntable to the head, and lift, or push the head up a little. If the bottom of the neckpipe goes above the stormstay, the head will tilt over too much. ONLY lift the head enough to change balls! IF your pump pole is strong enough turn the wheel until the mill is on the up of the upstroke. Vice grips the bottom of the pole where it goes in to the well pipe. Then turn the wheel slowly after taking the bushing out of the bottom of the neckpipe. If the pump pole is stout enough, you will raise the mill instead of the mill pushing down the sucker rod. BE CAREFUL!! make sure there is no wind, and take a helper up with you, one to hold the wheel, the other to change a few balls. DON"T NEED TO CHANGE THEM ALL. Change maybe 10 or so around the turntable evenly. Or, if you really like being up there change more. Once again, do not lift the head any more than you need to! It will fall over to one side! good luck!
Need to take out the bushing that's in the bottom of the neckpipe, held in by 1 bolt above the stormstay. If you are REALLY lucky the bushing is not rusted in, and locked up tight. If it slides out, great. bunji cord the upper turntable to the head, and lift, or push the head up a little. If the bottom of the neckpipe goes above the stormstay, the head will tilt over too much. ONLY lift the head enough to change balls! IF your pump pole is strong enough turn the wheel until the mill is on the up of the upstroke. Vice grips the bottom of the pole where it goes in to the well pipe. Then turn the wheel slowly after taking the bushing out of the bottom of the neckpipe. If the pump pole is stout enough, you will raise the mill instead of the mill pushing down the sucker rod. BE CAREFUL!! make sure there is no wind, and take a helper up with you, one to hold the wheel, the other to change a few balls. DON"T NEED TO CHANGE THEM ALL. Change maybe 10 or so around the turntable evenly. Or, if you really like being up there change more. Once again, do not lift the head any more than you need to! It will fall over to one side! good luck!
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
Re: Change swivel bearing on Baker Mfg WC 21
Todd , heed the wisdom of the masters of the trade , caution is formost , Both guys are the best with sharing past experences & knowledge .
Re: Change swivel bearing on Baker Mfg WC 21
The wheel on Monitor WC type mills has a tilt back at the top. If you stand back and look,the wheel is straight up and down, you need to replace the front bearing at LEAST. If the wheel has no tilt, the sails WILL hit the tower, and start shredding. You can also look at the backside of the sails, ot the outside corners of the legs up there where the ends of the sails are. That will say a lot. If the bearing is good, you will see a noticable tilt to the wheel.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
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Fxrtharley
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2022 10:35 am
- Location: Marshall wi
Re: Change swivel bearing on Baker Mfg WC 21
Thank you for the replies. Of course I wish I was able to get back up to see the actual assembly versus going off of memory and some pictures I took.
Excuse my ignorance but have a few more questions for clarification.
First, it is mentioned a bushing needs to be removed and the pipe is to stay within the storm stay. Is the stormstay in attached picture along with the bushing which has a flange at bottom? I am guessing the flange is what keeps the windmill from pulling up and out?
Also based on the way the top race is resting on the bolts from the pictures in first post, do you think there is still enough race to add bearing balls if I am able to raise? Not sure if the two parts might have ground together and wore the races out.
If I am understanding the assembly correctly and if the flange at bottom of stormstay is what keeps the windmill in place, based on the picture the flange is quite close already to the stormstay so dont know how it would re assemble once raised to add the bearings. This makes me think I still dont understand the components correctly. Would either of you be able to detail further? Thank you.
Excuse my ignorance but have a few more questions for clarification.
First, it is mentioned a bushing needs to be removed and the pipe is to stay within the storm stay. Is the stormstay in attached picture along with the bushing which has a flange at bottom? I am guessing the flange is what keeps the windmill from pulling up and out?
Also based on the way the top race is resting on the bolts from the pictures in first post, do you think there is still enough race to add bearing balls if I am able to raise? Not sure if the two parts might have ground together and wore the races out.
If I am understanding the assembly correctly and if the flange at bottom of stormstay is what keeps the windmill in place, based on the picture the flange is quite close already to the stormstay so dont know how it would re assemble once raised to add the bearings. This makes me think I still dont understand the components correctly. Would either of you be able to detail further? Thank you.
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Re: Change swivel bearing on Baker Mfg WC 21
On a non-windy day is my recommendation.
The storm stay is circled in red. You don’t want to lift the mast pipe out of the storm stay or the windmill will fall over to one side. The pump rod being there helps. Try lifting just enough to access the bearings between the two races, using a small magnet pick up tool to possibly remove the old ball bearings. Maybe needle nose pliers to put new ones in.
The bushing circled in blue needs to be removed as it keeps the windmill on the tower as a storm might otherwise suck or blow the windmill head off the tower.
I’d think the races are good enough to add ball bearings. If the bolt heads were heavily damaged from the upper race, I might be inclined to think otherwise. Windy relayed the ball sizes previously that it actually uses and one larger size too for when the races are worn.
The storm stay is circled in red. You don’t want to lift the mast pipe out of the storm stay or the windmill will fall over to one side. The pump rod being there helps. Try lifting just enough to access the bearings between the two races, using a small magnet pick up tool to possibly remove the old ball bearings. Maybe needle nose pliers to put new ones in.
The bushing circled in blue needs to be removed as it keeps the windmill on the tower as a storm might otherwise suck or blow the windmill head off the tower.
I’d think the races are good enough to add ball bearings. If the bolt heads were heavily damaged from the upper race, I might be inclined to think otherwise. Windy relayed the ball sizes previously that it actually uses and one larger size too for when the races are worn.
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Re: Change swivel bearing on Baker Mfg WC 21
Michael , thank you for knowing how to modify photos to illistrate the important things , cool skills you have .
Re: Change swivel bearing on Baker Mfg WC 21
The bolt that holds the bushing in is above the stay. Usually square headed. After removing the bolt, HOPEFULLY the bushing comes out. If not, we will discuss it farther later. Looking at the turntable, it's worn so much...there may not be much bolthead left. may even need to pry up on the turntable to be able to unscrew the bolt.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
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Fxrtharley
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2022 10:35 am
- Location: Marshall wi
Re: Change swivel bearing on Baker Mfg WC 21
Hello all, thank you for all of the help. I was able to rent a boom lift this weekend and based on all of your suggestions I was able prepare the fix and accomplish the task.
I took a different route on how to raise the gearbox and wheel. I used a standpipe clamp with a muffler clamp as a backup to keep from sliding and made a bridge to drape a come along cable over. I was able to raise the gearbox and take out the old bearings. I put new bearings in but did go with the 11/16 since the cast iron races were worn a bit and wanted the top race to sit off the bolts further.
Slathered it with grease and let it down. Very happy with the results.
I hope to have time some where down the road to do a complete overhaul but only have time right now to make sure we do not lose the windmill to a rogue wind with the windmill not being able to turn. See the different pictures on how I devised a lift strategy.
Thanks all
I took a different route on how to raise the gearbox and wheel. I used a standpipe clamp with a muffler clamp as a backup to keep from sliding and made a bridge to drape a come along cable over. I was able to raise the gearbox and take out the old bearings. I put new bearings in but did go with the 11/16 since the cast iron races were worn a bit and wanted the top race to sit off the bolts further.
Slathered it with grease and let it down. Very happy with the results.
I hope to have time some where down the road to do a complete overhaul but only have time right now to make sure we do not lose the windmill to a rogue wind with the windmill not being able to turn. See the different pictures on how I devised a lift strategy.
Thanks all
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