Picked up a "new" windmill and tower from Dakota Windmill. Been restoring the farm, new tin on all buildings and barns, figured a fresh windmill is in order too. Should last the rest of my life. And maybe even my newborn baby Jeanne's life.
Tower went in the holes tonight, pouring cement tomorrow for the anchors. Hoping to put the mill up on Saturday. Weather looks promising. Any tips I should know before I lift the head up.
Fresh build.
Fresh build.
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Re: Fresh build.
Looks great!
Re: Fresh build.
I agree, looking great.
Re: Fresh build.
Super nice , also impressed with the coated floor & insulation all around ! Make for good working conditions & your windmill is proof .
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Windcatcher530 Dan
- Posts: 2427
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2021 4:06 pm
- Location: Alcove N.Y.i buy and restore
Re: Fresh build.
Even your little one is impressed, Nice.
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Ron Stauffer
- Posts: 540
- Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2018 10:25 am
- Location: Uncompahgre Plateau Montrose CO
- Contact:
Re: Fresh build.
Dakota did do castings for new cases and hubs but that is a rebuild. It is their newer spokes. They fan goes together easier assembling with motor suspended hub down against a wood block on the floor than on a stand because of the too long spoke ends at the outer band. Make sure Jeanne takes windmill rebuilding in college as the timing will be right for the next rebuild.
The easiest time to space/shim the head on the mast is when you have a bare motor and a bare mast pipe. If you didnt check it already, the case can be measured with a tape and the mast with a try square. Shim to have between 1/16 and 1/8 of mast above the case top. Since this is a used case, you will want to grease the stem before setting the head on to help prevent oil seepage.
If you can get the mill outside on the stand, put a rachet strap from the Z bar on the tail bone to the outer band at 3 oclock on the case side. Then put 2 pair of curved jaw vise grips on the brake band as close to the fixed end of the brake band as you can. Lock it off like this with the guide wheel in the middle of the hoop, easiest spot to get the mast washer & nut and pump rod on. Pick up from the hoop, the balance point
Ideally you should have enough boom height to dangle the head below the man bucket. With a pump hoist that has a remote, I will stab the furl ring over the mast end from the ground. Personally I dont like to see anyone on a platform while the mill is in free suspension coming in for a landing. Once I stab the furl ring, I go up on the platform with remote to control the lowering and see that every thing is good.
Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO
The easiest time to space/shim the head on the mast is when you have a bare motor and a bare mast pipe. If you didnt check it already, the case can be measured with a tape and the mast with a try square. Shim to have between 1/16 and 1/8 of mast above the case top. Since this is a used case, you will want to grease the stem before setting the head on to help prevent oil seepage.
If you can get the mill outside on the stand, put a rachet strap from the Z bar on the tail bone to the outer band at 3 oclock on the case side. Then put 2 pair of curved jaw vise grips on the brake band as close to the fixed end of the brake band as you can. Lock it off like this with the guide wheel in the middle of the hoop, easiest spot to get the mast washer & nut and pump rod on. Pick up from the hoop, the balance point
Ideally you should have enough boom height to dangle the head below the man bucket. With a pump hoist that has a remote, I will stab the furl ring over the mast end from the ground. Personally I dont like to see anyone on a platform while the mill is in free suspension coming in for a landing. Once I stab the furl ring, I go up on the platform with remote to control the lowering and see that every thing is good.
Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO
