That's what I thought. I saw a few pictures of one with wood bearing caps somewhere else. Pretty interesting looking, would be cool to have something with wood bearing, doesn't get much simpler than that haha. I think on mine I'll just go back with babbitt instead of the oil impregnated bushings. It's lasted this long and I already have plenty of babbitt metal.
Is the thickness on those shims super important or will cork that's close work fine?
Woodmanse steel back gear.
Re: Woodmanse steel back gear.
I don’t think the thickness is of a major concern of the material used. Others might have a more informed opinion. Cork would probably work fine.
I purchased a scrap piece of leather off of eBay (5/6oz 2-2.4mm that is the material thickness I randomly picked) for about $14 or so and cut the pieces I needed for my open gear, plus I have extra leather left over to make leather washers for bonnet nuts. I soaked those cut pieces in some excess compressor oil I had around. When I slightly compress the upper bearing housing on to the windmill main frame with the nuts/bolts, I can see that the leather is/was saturated with oil as some oil squeezes out of the leather. Soaking the leather or cork in oil (at least in my mind) also helps it become weather resistant.
I purchased a scrap piece of leather off of eBay (5/6oz 2-2.4mm that is the material thickness I randomly picked) for about $14 or so and cut the pieces I needed for my open gear, plus I have extra leather left over to make leather washers for bonnet nuts. I soaked those cut pieces in some excess compressor oil I had around. When I slightly compress the upper bearing housing on to the windmill main frame with the nuts/bolts, I can see that the leather is/was saturated with oil as some oil squeezes out of the leather. Soaking the leather or cork in oil (at least in my mind) also helps it become weather resistant.
Re: Woodmanse steel back gear.
That makes sense, I would bet originally the leather was oiled too. Plus I bet oil seeps in from inside and keeps it wet aswell. Did you paint yours or just clean it and leave as is?
Re: Woodmanse steel back gear.
I have two open gear older windmills and one more modern-ish open gear. I’m not painting the two old open gears from the early 1900s, but will paint the more modern open gear mill.
Re: Woodmanse steel back gear.
Oh okay. Yea I wasn't sure if I wanted to paint this one considering how rusty the wheel is. Wouldn't match! Haha. Probably will just spray it down with oil after cleaning it
Whenever you have a chance, would you be able to get the dimensions on the tail of yours so I can start looking into building one from scratch?
Whenever you have a chance, would you be able to get the dimensions on the tail of yours so I can start looking into building one from scratch?
Re: Woodmanse steel back gear.
Sorry for the confusion. I’ve been talking about my Butler in how I opted to replace the Babbitt bearings for what I considered an upgrade with the oil impregnated bronze bushings and the presence of leather shim as a similarity between old open gears. I was trying to talk similarities and pointers as I don’t own a Woodmanse.
The two open gear oldies that I own are a Baker X and Butler Double Gear and the newer one is a Parish.
The two open gear oldies that I own are a Baker X and Butler Double Gear and the newer one is a Parish.
Re: Woodmanse steel back gear.
Ohh okay sorry I misunderstood haha. Well l believe Wayne has one, maybe he can if it's not up high on a tower. Or who knows, maybe someone at the trade fair will have one for not too much and I can have an original.
Re: Woodmanse steel back gear.
Working on rebabbitting today. I see on the pitman arm that it had oil wicks in either end. What is a good material to use for new wicks? Would regular oil lamp wick work?
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Re: Woodmanse steel back gear.
Original were wire wicks but oil lamp wicks should work !!!
Re: Woodmanse steel back gear.
Thomas , yes as Dan says , also what works is sheep wool , raw , as it still has oil so adding more is good .