Samson S: new to me crusty, where to begin

[CTXmiller]

I found this thread for the Sears Champion variant of the Samson S.

https://vintagewindmillforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=926

I screenshot where the author talks about getting the bell-shaped fan hub off.

[windybob]

What I took away from that article, is that if the outer hub is intact, and not wallowed out, you must unscrew both hubs at the same time to get off, just like you have to screw both (together) to get back on. It's that darned ol' tab and notch thing. As long as they are engaged, you cannot move one hub without moving the other. Yours is not engaged. Back hub should be free to rotate.

[DennisT]

I've not made a connection with the Champion until now. (I'll look it up more for the sake of comparison). Really good move, you showing that other report/post. Thank you. Several times in all this I've looked back at a tidbit I learned and thought, "silly me I should have caught that!" Just like the concept of screwing on both big hub and outer spoke-spider together based on the interlocking tab requirement. Ahhhh. Well, it appears most, if not all, of my efforts now ought to be to UNSCREW the hub. I suspect there are very few remaining threads to deal with, but even a few certainly recommends the unscrewing method. And threads ought to be standard right hand as I suggested earlier, as that method when the mill is functioning will tend to keep things tight.

[windybob]

Unscrewing is the way to go. If it's got some threads, that's fine. If it does Not have threads, that's fine too. I have a Sears and Roebuck S. Says right on the bottom. The one I was looking at the other day was another I didn't know I had, and all the hub tabs were broke off, and a 12 or 14 inch Vbelt pulley attached. I could see the back of the hub where it was on the shaft. That's where it seemed there was a small shoulder on the shaft. Something needs to stop the hub from moving back. A small shoulder would do it.

[windybob]

At this point, I dont know if I can help or not, with parts. The only brake arm I have is numbered 8 not 10, so I imagine it would not be the right size. Also what I see are heads that have no tail hardware attached.

Were you looking in a parts manual for your missing parts? I was wondering if maybe you accidentally were looking at 10 ft parts instead of 6 ft parts. With the number 10 you said for your brake arm, I'm just making sure it's the correct number. If 8 ( on mine) means 8 footer, mine has a 5 spoke hubs, maybe the part number 10 is for a 10 ft head. Your head is a 6 footer, so just making sure here. Do other parts on your head have 6 on them?

[CTXmiller]

At this point, I dont know if I can help or not, with parts. The only brake arm I have is numbered 8 not 10, so I imagine it would not be the right size. Also what I see are heads that have no tail hardware attached.

Were you looking in a parts manual for your missing parts? I was wondering if maybe you accidentally were looking at 10 ft parts instead of 6 ft parts. With the number 10 you said for your brake arm, I'm just making sure it's the correct number. If 8 ( on mine) means 8 footer, mine has a 5 spoke hubs, maybe the part number 10 is for a 10 ft head. Your head is a 6 footer, so just making sure here. Do other parts on your head have 6 on them?

I think the gentleman on the “Stover model M” thread under Projects was needing the brake arm. Not this Samson S thread, but I could be wrong.

The photo from that Model M parts list is attached. The parts list says the 6’ / 8’ & 9’ / 10’ use the 10M8 and only the 12’ uses a different part # 2015

[windybob]

Thank you! OMG now I'm starting to confuse myself! LOL I don't get that parts list numbering idea. The one I looked at this morning at the shop clearly had an 8 instead of the 10. Too bad we lost Steve Stover a long time ago.

[DennisT]

Correct, CTX. I, original poster to this thread, have a 10 foot head and my brake arm is good.
And as long as I'm back typing this, my fight to remove the big hub has yielded nothing so far. Lots of penetrant, some heat and sharp raps against a wood block on the hub still have not unscrewed anything. I apply more penetrant every time I walk by, but doubt that will be able all by itself to work through along the shaft enough to loosen anything. I'll keep at it. We also now have snow and temps out there in that old building are not inviting.