Hello all,
I have a Baker WB from a project never got to 20 years ago. Life was busy. The hub shaft needs replacing. I took it to a old neighbour who has apress. He can rebuild steam engines so I thought he could do it safely. He handed it back one day and said it's cracked. Ok. So now I need advice to repair or is it a lost cause. I thought I would Dremel the crack with a small cut wheel both sides and ni cad weld. Or what would your advice be?
There is also a hole that was started to be drilled in the cast on the side. Is there a pin ?
And is the key tapered,so drive shaft in?
And one more question. The red wb pic the part just above the upper ball race. I don't have that piece and do not see it in the parts pic and list. Is that a different baker?
Thanks for your patience and help
Baker WB
Re: Baker WB
The red piece is a home-made item, to convert a WB longneck to a regular (short) neck mill. Regulars have a set of tabs to sit over the ridge on the upper race of the turntable.The tabs are cast onto the case. Otherwise, it's pretty much the same mill.(The neckpipe is longer and the brake hardware on a true longneck.)
The key in the hub is tapered, may be why it cracked. That can be repaired, but if the crack goes parallel to the keyway, a repair won 't hold. The key is tight in the keyway because the shaft would work loose if it's not. If I were to make a new shaft, I would certainly make the end long enough to at least be flush with the hub end, so I could also drive a key and weld it both. New shafts are available. I have issues trusting all Monitor hubs staying tight on the shaft, altho most do.
The key in the hub is tapered, may be why it cracked. That can be repaired, but if the crack goes parallel to the keyway, a repair won 't hold. The key is tight in the keyway because the shaft would work loose if it's not. If I were to make a new shaft, I would certainly make the end long enough to at least be flush with the hub end, so I could also drive a key and weld it both. New shafts are available. I have issues trusting all Monitor hubs staying tight on the shaft, altho most do.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number.
Re: Baker WB
Thankyou windybob.,
So should the key be driven out from inside the hub out the front. I don't know why the drill imprint is on the side. I did not do it .
jerry
So should the key be driven out from inside the hub out the front. I don't know why the drill imprint is on the side. I did not do it .
jerry
Re: Baker WB
Someone may have thought of putting a bolt through it. I've seen that before. Problem is.....you can't squeeze cast iron to hold tight to the shaft, altho Dempster was more succesful at doing it.
The shaft should be pushed out the front. Or the hub pushed towarsd the back end of the shaft. Same thing. Won't hurt to heat it some. Last one that i did, I shoved a new shaft in, then drove the key in the front end. I would still request a new shaft be longer on the front, to tack it to the shaft, but that's just me. You can't do enough to make the hub stay tight to the shaft. It is the worst problem of many mills. Designs for this issue has been from A to Z.
If you have 2 tabs welded to bottome of the case, you can eliminate the bracket thingy. Just make sure the chain pulley will be directly over the chain slot in the turntable slot. There is a reason why there are 2 tabs on the turntable top, but that's another topic.
The shaft should be pushed out the front. Or the hub pushed towarsd the back end of the shaft. Same thing. Won't hurt to heat it some. Last one that i did, I shoved a new shaft in, then drove the key in the front end. I would still request a new shaft be longer on the front, to tack it to the shaft, but that's just me. You can't do enough to make the hub stay tight to the shaft. It is the worst problem of many mills. Designs for this issue has been from A to Z.
If you have 2 tabs welded to bottome of the case, you can eliminate the bracket thingy. Just make sure the chain pulley will be directly over the chain slot in the turntable slot. There is a reason why there are 2 tabs on the turntable top, but that's another topic.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number.
Re: Baker WB
Thankyou,
I am getting it soaked with penetrating oil. I will strengthen the crack with Ni cad. and I need to get more acetylene to heat. So as I have time I will get it out and look for a machinist to get it remade.
I have another thought about building up the pitted part where the bearing rests with epoxy and sizing it back to 7/8. I have a new bearing half for it regardless.
Thankyou again for the direction
jerry
I am getting it soaked with penetrating oil. I will strengthen the crack with Ni cad. and I need to get more acetylene to heat. So as I have time I will get it out and look for a machinist to get it remade.
I have another thought about building up the pitted part where the bearing rests with epoxy and sizing it back to 7/8. I have a new bearing half for it regardless.
Thankyou again for the direction
jerry
Re: Baker WB
Just put another shaft in it, then weld it. Dan B has shafts. Or have one made. One good thing to do before repairing anything, is to measure the brake surface for wear. Measure from the botton of the brake groove to the backside of it, on the hub. I've seen that wear thin, then the whole outside of the hub where the bolt tabs are, breaks off. That's what happens when the brake drags on it forever. I use a calipers, but I forget what a good measurement is these days. If it's good and thick, then proceed with repairs.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number.
