Pump rod/swivel play

[Reddirtwind]

Neighbor has converted his well to a solar pump, and said I could have his old Fiasa A702 for free. Unfortunately, the tower (old pipe tower) has multiple spots where rust has eaten completely through, and it’s just too far gone for me to waste time/money on.

The mill itself, however, is ok. The fan will need some work/replacement parts, but the case is solid, and I plan on spending the money to replace all the bearings/pitmans/small pinion gears, just to assure it’s good and tight for the next 20-30 years or more. Vane/tailbone was replaced a few years back, so is very nice.

Was looking over the pump rod, and noticed some play in the swivel area. I don’t know what is exactly an “acceptable” amount of play, so thought I’d ask the experts. Here’s a short video:


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[Reddirtwind]

This mill WILL be pumping water, but only from about 60-70’ deep (with a 1-7/8 to 2-1/4” cylinder, and 2” to 2-1/2” pipe, max, most likely). Didn’t know if the weight of the water column makes this a non-issue (keeping this junction area “extended” all the time, rather than compressing/extending with each full stroke), or if this is going to be a source of clicking noise?? I don’t deal with enough windmills/parts to know if a NEW one has just as much play in it, either. The part is in otherwise sound condition. Thanks!

[windybob]

The swivel should have just a bit of play, but not tight enough to bind up. It must swivel. An eighth or so is fine. If it's enclosed, it should have a grease zerk. If it's an open type, grease by hand or use heavy oil.

If the static water level is 60 ft, we would use 1 1/4 galv drop pipe with a 2 1/2 cylinder, with the head set on long stroke. we don't plumb to the bottom, a good well can certainly keep up with the cylinder being 10 or 15 ft under the water. There should be no drawdown in a decent well. With an 8 ft head, you could even go with a 3 inch cylinder if you needed more.

[Reddirtwind]

Yeah, it’s a “closed” type. Rod has a captured threaded nut that attaches it to the bracket/“swivel”. Kinda silly that there is a pocket to put grease in (if you separate the two), but NO grease zerk. You’d have to detach the two to grease it properly, at service time. I may drill/tap it for a zerk…

(YES, the Argentinians DID have the good sense to tack weld that bottom hex nut, so it doesn’t unscrew off the rod. The threaded nut, however, COULD unscrew from the swivel, if the rod were to bind up inside it, though. The assembly swivels freely at this time.)

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[RPinAZ]

Just curious - what keeps the nut from coming loose? Is it pinned to the shaft?

-RP

[Reddirtwind]

That black nut is welded to the shaft. The red threaded middle nut spins, and is “captured” between that black nut (and some washers), and the “flared” portion of the rod above it.

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[Reddirtwind]

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[RPinAZ]

Got it. Thanks.

-RP

[Reddirtwind]

And THIS is probably why this (threaded) design isn’t used, now. If you don’t tighten the heck out of it, it unscrews itself after one week (swivels easily, but think the up/down started working its magic…). Oh well, another trip up the tower.

If it does it, again, I’ll switch over to the newer “open” design, that has no threads to come loose.

[windybob]

I would adjust it, and put a hole and pin thru it. Many of them have it.