. ThanksAermotor hub/shaft removal
Aermotor hub/shaft removal
What is the preferred way to separate the shaft from an Aermotor hub? I’m replacing a bent shaft on a 602 hub and I got the hub separated from the shaft and it wasn’t particularly fun, but it was successful. That key was stubborn. Might should had asked this question yesterday . Thanks
. Thanks-
Windcatcher530 Dan
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- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2021 4:06 pm
- Location: Alcove N.Y.i buy and restore
Re: Aermotor hub/shaft removal
Sometimes you have to drill the key out before pressing. !!
Re: Aermotor hub/shaft removal
Dan,
That is close to what I ended up doing. I drilled into the shaft nearest the key and I’ll be damned if I didn’t break off a cobalt drill bit by the key. Needless to say I drilled other holes in the shaft at the hub end and broke out the die grinder and made work of the shaft to access the key. Tried heat and tried to drive the key out from the inside of the hub, which didn’t work until the very end. I was hesitant to put it in a press as it is an early 602 hub, so it is lighter made than the later 602 hubs. Once I got the key somewhat accessible, I drove the key out from the inside of the hub out the front.
You’re saying to just drill the key out next time? I should had asked this question yesterday, before I started, but it worked. Thanks
That is close to what I ended up doing. I drilled into the shaft nearest the key and I’ll be damned if I didn’t break off a cobalt drill bit by the key. Needless to say I drilled other holes in the shaft at the hub end and broke out the die grinder and made work of the shaft to access the key. Tried heat and tried to drive the key out from the inside of the hub, which didn’t work until the very end. I was hesitant to put it in a press as it is an early 602 hub, so it is lighter made than the later 602 hubs. Once I got the key somewhat accessible, I drove the key out from the inside of the hub out the front.
You’re saying to just drill the key out next time? I should had asked this question yesterday, before I started, but it worked. Thanks
Re: Aermotor hub/shaft removal
Glad those 2 parts seperated with no damage to the hub .
Re: Aermotor hub/shaft removal
I take the time to cut off the shaft and then set the hub up on the mill table and drill out the shaft to just inside the diameter of the shaft, then the shaft presses out of the hub very easy. You can also drill out the shaft on a drill press
Re: Aermotor hub/shaft removal
Thank you
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Ron Stauffer
- Posts: 521
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- Location: Uncompahgre Plateau Montrose CO
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Re: Aermotor hub/shaft removal
Michael
The full time rebuild shops press the hub in 3/4” and then grind the outside peen off. Then the hub is pressed off the other direction. Heavy, snug fitting sleeves are used for pressing so the pressure on the cast is right next to the shaft.
You could be preemptive and ask about installing which is the most critical?
Setting end play is harder to do with the 602 than the 702. You don’t have an easy reference like 702 by putting in pinion bearing and outer pinion gear and getting a good defined measurement to the end of the snout. On 602, you can measure off the old shaft if you had good alignment of the large and small gears.
Hubs have to be very tight on the shaft as evidenced by what it takes to get the old off. There is really not that much contact area of hub to shaft for the amount of offset leverage that the inner spokes have on the hub. Peening the shaft end only keeps the hub from coming off and doesn’t make the hub tight on the shaft except at the very end. Shop installers have gauged presses as well as using knurling and metal epoxy. I have had to take a couple of them apart with about the same ease as original.
Knurling is done differently than the large gear shaft. Knurling is done with a straight chisel perpendicular to the hub shaft. Apply the epoxy so it isn’t pushed into the hub cavity. Without the benefit of a gauged press, the farm shop method of knowing the hub is tight enough is if there is no movement of the hub on the shaft when peening the end with moderate blows. Yes I know, a long way to go to find out not tight enough.
An average time for off and on in a rebuild shop is a half hour...
Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO
The full time rebuild shops press the hub in 3/4” and then grind the outside peen off. Then the hub is pressed off the other direction. Heavy, snug fitting sleeves are used for pressing so the pressure on the cast is right next to the shaft.
You could be preemptive and ask about installing which is the most critical?
Setting end play is harder to do with the 602 than the 702. You don’t have an easy reference like 702 by putting in pinion bearing and outer pinion gear and getting a good defined measurement to the end of the snout. On 602, you can measure off the old shaft if you had good alignment of the large and small gears.
Hubs have to be very tight on the shaft as evidenced by what it takes to get the old off. There is really not that much contact area of hub to shaft for the amount of offset leverage that the inner spokes have on the hub. Peening the shaft end only keeps the hub from coming off and doesn’t make the hub tight on the shaft except at the very end. Shop installers have gauged presses as well as using knurling and metal epoxy. I have had to take a couple of them apart with about the same ease as original.
Knurling is done differently than the large gear shaft. Knurling is done with a straight chisel perpendicular to the hub shaft. Apply the epoxy so it isn’t pushed into the hub cavity. Without the benefit of a gauged press, the farm shop method of knowing the hub is tight enough is if there is no movement of the hub on the shaft when peening the end with moderate blows. Yes I know, a long way to go to find out not tight enough.
An average time for off and on in a rebuild shop is a half hour...
Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO
Re: Aermotor hub/shaft removal
Ron,
Thank you
Thank you
