A602 Rebuild Project

[tst]

A short time back about a 100 year old man stopped and told me he worked at the turkey farm here when he was in school so pre WW2, he had some pics he gave me of the place when it was working then, they are dated late 20's and early 30's
I have to get these saved to digital nicer but just clipped a few pics with my camera, gives an idea the size of The Turkey Farm Operation, this was all built in the 20's
now you can see why they needed lots of water as Turkeys were here by the 1000's
all the buildings were "Saltbox" style built on stilts as you can see in the 5th pic, that is the owner of the turkey farm in that 5th pic, he made it to 99 years old ! they had T & G Oak Floors and 6 " of concrete poured on top of the floors so all the buildings "bellied" in to the ground years ago
It had a small gauge railroad flat car with tracks made from oak rails and cladded in steel with a hit/miss type engine to pull the flat car to feed the turkeys
This farm shipped turkeys all over as far as NYC about 100 miles away , fed the County Fair with hot turkey sandwich booths for 10 day clips

[tst]

The well I am working on is about in the middle between the telephone pole and barn in the last pic

[Ron Stauffer]

I took time and looked back thru your post since it was all in one spot Here are my observations:

The grease inside the hub doesn’t make sense when it would have been apart for a repour.
Mill was likely worked over several times.
Case and hub were not together originally.
The fan, tail bone, bare case, furl ring and mast pipe could have been from same time frame.
The main gears, pitman arms, and hub/shaft are from same but different time frame.
If the small gears are cast vs steel, they are probably mates to the large gears.
The pump rod yoke isnt visible enough to tell if pinned or threaded.
The hoop for that era of case would have been stamped, likely replaced.
Hoops were routinely replaced by rebuilders at one time but later not being reshaped with welding and grinder machining.
Dakota had at different times marked cases repoured with either mo/yr stamp on flat lip of the case or X on protrusion.

*Usually when the cup on the mast stem is worn thin on the sides like yours, the mast stem is worn and should be replaced.*

Ron

[Windcatcher530 Dan]

Ron for some reason up here in New York i have never found a manufacturer date on the hoop. I'm talking probably around 20 mills and I am pretty positive some were original. Not sure why and never new they had stamped dates until this forum. another puzzle missing a piece.

[tst]

Today was a learning curve some what but went ok
1st pulled the pump jack out, I was confused as I thought it was a pump itself as I could see no drop rod for a pump, so pulled up the pumpjack, supported the pipe and its a 3 " pipe ,chopped off the pipe at the pump jack, no sign of a drop rod, so now with the pump jack out of the way pulled up 10 ft of pipe and chopped it off and found the drop rod, it was broken off in side the pump jack at the threads and fell about 5-6 ft in the pipe
Pipe was full of water so check valve was still good after not being used in 35-40 years, pulled the 1st 20ft of pipe up, and its over a 100 degrees today, so lost 15 lbs in sweat
the plate I cut and notched fits under the pipe couple perfect to hold the pipe along with the big bearing splitter , see pics
so starting pulling the drop rod out, , I was shocked how easily they unscrewed, has 5/8 rod and in great shape, along with the 3 " galv is beautiful on the inside that I pulled
The drop rod is 13 ft long and got around 75 ft out and decided that was enough for today with the heat, I have a feeling I have a good cylinder as the water was still full in the pipe, wonder how deep the drop rod goes? , still has a lot of weight it feels like on it
see how it goes tomorrow and keep pulling pump rod I guess I might have a good deep well cylinder ? kinda like a big fish at the end of the hook and wondering what it looks like ? maybe next time I get all the pump rod out ?

[tst]

Ron thanks for reading through my book and appreciate all your incite, our part of the country we have no one that does this anymore, Dan knows about it and and I am a beginner but catch on fast

[windybob]

I'm really glad you are having much luck on that big job. Hope you don't get heat sick, be careful!

[tst]

Thanks, I quit before I melted, lots of big heat and mean storms after the heat here lately, spent lots of time on generator this month

[Ron Stauffer]

I assume you might still be pulling this well?



I ran across this channel on you tube and viewed some of his things. Mostly it is accurate but for what he deals with in the formations that are in his area. Helping out his brother, he totally went out of his area of expertise. What piqued my interest was seeing the pit, the big expansion tank, then the Goulds but that is when the similarity ends to yours.. They were dealing with either driven or drilled 2” cased well (guessing drilled as he mostly works in granite formations). So they had without knowing a 1.25 drop with slimline cylinder inside the 2”. The slimline is a closed top so you can only pull up until you get to the top of the cylinder. Your 3” drop is likely tied to a 2.75” open top which allows you to pull the rod out separate from the drop pipe.

FYI, if you have good leathers on the plunger/working check in a closed or open top cylinder, it will also hold your water column. So either the bottom check or plunger check can hold your water column. Most bottom checks on open tops have threads that mate with the bottom of the plunger. It enables you to drop down and turn in to the bottom check to retrieve all the cylinder interior workings. When the rod is raised far enough to get out of the cylinder, you will lose your water column and be pulling dry pipe thereafter. Now I tell you...

In the vid, they hooked to the rod thinking they could pull the rod out. No! You are trying to pull everything hooked to the 7/16 rod on a closed top. He is correct in standing back because of the slingshot effect but he grossly over stated the pull of that rig. That particular rig is very familiar to me and will do 3000# pull on a single line, not 3 ton as stated. Also that is the rating if you have a minimum of 40 hp running the hydraulics on one of them. That two banger isnt there for 40hp.

Ron

[tst]

Thanks for posting that Ron, yes it is almost the same as mine, just a smaller model, did you notice the sound it made running, I described it as a giant bull frog
I got bust with other stuff and have not got back to mine yet, it is high on the list now, my pump rods were wood, hex shaped about 1 1/4 across,
it was cool to hear that old pump running sound again, it is unique
Thanks Tim