8' Baker WC

[73stang]

http://www.vintagewindmillpartslist.com ... dparts.pdf

[Wayne]

I see you have been getting your hands dirty since we visited. You will be watching the wheel turn in the wind in no time.

[windybob]

Well that's a good picture. Never saw that before. Thanks.

I copy the pictures, then send them to my edit program. there I can rotate them, or re-size them.

I'm really not sure of all the date changes. Just a few of them. I will Private Message you and suggest a place for parts.

Going back to your mainshaft issue, if you decide to replace it, it is possible. Those kinds of Monitor hubs can be difficult to change shafts in. I wish they could make mainshafts longer on the front end so a guy could tack-weld them after driving the key. Monitors use tapered keys there, by the way so be careful which way things get pushed.

[Coulteryan]

73stang, thank you for the parts diagram. I have visited that site but somehow missed that.

Wayne, thanks again for showing me your collection the other day. Yes, I was inspired to get going after seeing what you were doing. I think you may have more work ahead of you than I do though?

Windybob, Thanks for the pic and parts advise, I'll try both in future.

I am going to take the main shaft/hub combo to a friend and see if he can chuck it up in his lathe and try to polish the shaft. I think that will be my best bet to get it as it needs to be. I'm sure I will not be able to separate the shaft and hub given that it was apparently face down in the dirt for some time and is permanently bonded.

[windybob]

I have (in the past) had a shaft turned down, and new bearings made for an undersized shaft. I don't think you need to be that drastic though. Remember, these are not high speed machines, but very slow, so you can get away with a lot, as long you think about things first, and move with discretion. Monitor W series mills have a definite slant to the wheel, and you can see it when you assemble the hub/shaft in with new bearings. The hub has a slant back at the top. Actually it's 1 in 16. they did that to help oil run back, and for the wheel to miss the tower legs, because the snout is short. If the wheel runs vertical, it start clipping the tower, and will eventually destroy itself. You can always see a worn out mill from the ground by looking at the wheel.

[windybob]

A couple of other things... The pumprod, and the tailpin in these are the same diameter. In the 8 ft model, it's 9/16 shaft. The top of the pumprod has a big like nailhead on it. when it's mounted in the pumprod mount, ( forgot the number) it should spin freely with the 2 bolts tight. This stops the need for a swivel on the other end in the tower.

All the places and items associated with the tailpin have remarkably little wear.

[Coulteryan]

Thanks for the info on the slant of the shaft, I think I would have assumed I did something wrong if Id' have noticed that during reassembly.

I did go and see my buddy with the lathe today. Because of clearance issue we were not able to actually use any cutting tools on it but I was able to turn it and use several files and sand paper to get it pretty smooth I hope. I used the old bushing to check for high spots, using the brass left on the high spots to identify them.

There is some pitting in the shaft but that shouldn't affect the new bushing. The small rear bushing shows very little wear when compared to the longer front bushing which is razor thin at the outer most edge.

I do recall the pump rod spinning before I took it apart, so I'll be sure the check for that when I put it back together.

With the shaft addressed and clean up mostly done I guess it's time to start ordering some parts!

[windybob]

Front bearing ALWAYS wears more that the rear. The weight of the wheel.

I'm nervous about the shaft up by the hub. Don't get in a hurry here. When you order a new oil slinger, and put it on the shaft, we can see how much "decent" shaft you have to work with. "decent" is a relative term. If it does not fit snug on the shaft at the hub, we may have an issue. Seeing as how the bearing is so shot, take a picture of the front of the snout, so we can get a looksie at the bottom of the opening.

[windybob]

Wayne, are you paying attention here? MAybe he's out taking census. Wayne, count all the legs you see, and divide by 2. That should help.

[Coulteryan]

Ok now I guess I'm confused, but it may be my inexperience with the terminology...is the oil slinger the brass bushing, or something else?

It appears to me that the oil is picked up by a ring that rotates by virtue of it's contact with the larger gear. The oil is scrapped, or just drips, off the ring through a trough and falls onto the pitman guide where some of the oil lubricates the pitman guide bearing surfaces and the rest then travels down the pitman arm and oils those bearing surfaces. Remaining oil then travels down another trough oils the two gears and some is directed down a channel above the wheel shaft (towards the wheel) and oils that shaft and also the bushing, the remainder runs back to the oil pan. Don't know where any slinging happens? Maybe I'm missing a part?

I'm including and early and more recent picture of the area I think you want to see. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks