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Re: What does everyone use for paint on blades? Looking for that galvanized look again.
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 11:58 pm
by Smax
I recently have been using the rustoleum hammered spray paint and like the look. Time will tell how long it will last.Sherwin Williams has a cold galvanizing paint that is reported to have a high zinc content. Have not used it yet but plan to obtain some for my next mill. If the mill is not rusted i tend to leave the finish alone except for a good cleaning. However most of my mills are usually in bad shape when I get them and usually require painting. I have used the van sickle and it does want to wash away after few years. Most paints will not bond with the galvanize and require surface prepping or acid wash to keep it from laminating. I think the technical term is called soapinifcation or something like that.
Re: What does everyone use for paint on blades? Looking for that galvanized look again.
Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 7:01 am
by Joshschneids
billcobb wrote: ↑Mon Feb 25, 2019 8:33 pm
I use both the cold galvanizing for preservation and Hammered for the look. Hammered needs a careful application scheme to avoid streaks and linear patterns. I find it at Home Depot, Lowes and occasionally at garage and estate sales. A fish oil based primer is highly recommended, too.
Thanks bill. Do you apply a layer of galvanizing then paint hammered overtop? That is what i am thinking of doing.
Re: What does everyone use for paint on blades? Looking for that galvanized look again.
Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 7:30 am
by billcobb
20160708_205034.jpg
Yes. Galv. first then Hammered. Note that you need to shake both type's can VERY thoroughly as the zinc and hammering particles are suspended in a paint. This ensures that you get a uniform look and covering. I also recommend the pistol grip applicator that snaps over the top of the cans. To get the uniform look, its necessary to keep the stuff flowing. By finger cramps up. Also, wear a light glove when spraying without the pistol grip deal. The nozzles tend to leak and spew contents all over your hand.
BTW, aluminum paint looks good, too, its just that I want the "That windmill has been here for a long time look".
Here's a shot of what the galvinizing only looks like. I did this for a friend of mine who wanted a "new mill" appearence. That's him posing. I had to have some help installing the tail bone so he went up the ladder. I'm on the boom lift, backed away a bit here. That's one of the Baker's Ken O'brock sold me and it's back in Michigan !
I have also been surprized at the use of the aluminized duct tape for putting special details in the fan and tail vane. On smooth tin, I have cut triangles of the tape to produce a 'saw blade' look on the fan blades. It shines in sunlight and catches your eye.
Re: What does everyone use for paint on blades? Looking for that galvanized look again.
Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 10:14 am
by Wayne
One thing I always think about when I look at my paint jobs on the ground. Is all the imperfections I can see on the ground won't be there when it is 30ft in the air!
Re: What does everyone use for paint on blades? Looking for that galvanized look again.
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 10:51 am
by Joshschneids
billcobb wrote: ↑Tue Feb 26, 2019 7:30 am
20160708_205034.jpgYes. Galv. first then Hammered. Note that you need to shake both type's can VERY thoroughly as the zinc and hammering particles are suspended in a paint. This ensures that you get a uniform look and covering. I also recommend the pistol grip applicator that snaps over the top of the cans. To get the uniform look, its necessary to keep the stuff flowing. By finger cramps up. Also, wear a light glove when spraying without the pistol grip deal. The nozzles tend to leak and spew contents all over your hand.
BTW, aluminum paint looks good, too, its just that I want the "That windmill has been here for a long time look".
Here's a shot of what the galvinizing only looks like. I did this for a friend of mine who wanted a "new mill" appearence. That's him posing. I had to have some help installing the tail bone so he went up the ladder. I'm on the boom lift, backed away a bit here. That's one of the Baker's Ken O'brock sold me and it's back in Michigan !
I have also been surprized at the use of the aluminized duct tape for putting special details in the fan and tail vane. On smooth tin, I have cut triangles of the tape to produce a 'saw blade' look on the fan blades. It shines in sunlight and catches your eye.
Bill this stuff works amazing. I took your advice and really shook the hell out of the cans. I found having the cans with a little heat by the wood stove helped it spray a lot more uniform also. I sprayed cold galvanizing then let it dry and layed hammered silver on top. Few imperfections but looking amazing. Nothing you won’t be able to see even 10 feet up. I will attach a couple pics.
Thanks Josh
Re: What does everyone use for paint on blades? Looking for that galvanized look again.
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 3:06 pm
by windmillerman
you can buy zinc primmer Rustoleum for $125 a gallon, 35lb plus
Re: What does everyone use for paint on blades? Looking for that galvanized look again.
Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 1:01 am
by LoTec
I have used various cold galvanizing products; I use a lot of the Rustoleum stuff. It looks pretty dang close in color to weathered galvanizing when first applied, but it has a disconcerting tendency to darken over time. Several years ago I had a customer paint the sheet metal on his 6' Aermotor with the Rustoleum Hammered paint. I really liked the looks of it, and bought some, but then I read the specs for the product on the Aermotor website, and it definitely said NOT to use it on galvanized metal. I'd like to see how the paint held up on that 6' mill, but it's about four hours drive away and I haven't gotten back. Another customer asked the Sherwin WIlliams dealer what to use to paint his 10' Aermotor wheel; they recommended he use their product called COROTHANE I MIO-ALUMINUM, a "single component, moisture curing, aluminum and Micaceous Iron Oxide (MIO) filled urethane primer, intermediate coating, or a finish coat." A reasonable weathered gray hue, looks very thick and tough. This guy is only about 25 miles away, so hopefully I can check occasionally to see how his paint job holds up.
Thanks Josh