Furling a Windmill Question

[Bryon]

The brake on an Aermotor style windmill is supposed to slip a bit. If it can't, damage to the blades can occur. The "brake harness" you refer to is called the lower furl.

[LoTec]

post by Rockabye74 » Wed May 15, 2019 9:06 pm
I would like to see a picture of the modifications that you just discussed.

I will probably be rebuilding a brake harness for an A702 tomorrow. I will try to take some photos.

[LoTec]

Here is a pdf document of a piece I wrote up describing how I rebuild the furl lever, with photos. It's a large file and may take a while to download.

Rebuild Aermotor A609 Furl Lever.pdf

[Mister Ed]

Bryce, that is pretty slick!!

[JBarker]

Here is a pdf document of a piece I wrote up describing how I rebuild the furl lever, with photos. It's a large file and may take a while to download.

Rebuild Aermotor A609 Furl Lever.pdf

Bryce, great article on repairing fuel lever. But, on the holes on the lever that are worn out how do you know where the original holes were? The holes look to be egg shaped out. Thanks.

Jerry

[LoTec]

When the brake is applied, the upper collar of the furl lever is being pushed up. Over the years the straps wear so that, as Jerry said, they are egg shaped. Most of the wear is at the bottom of the top hole and at the top of the bottom hole. So, the distance between the holes gets shorter. The original length is the maximum length you can get with the straps.

[Windy Bill]

I have a 702 mill that makes a low pitch squeal when it turns slow. I have furled it and with brake applied, it squeals like a pig under a gate! Climbed the tower today to try to adjust brake. Turned nut on brake band both in and out to try to get it locked down tighter. Couldn’t get it to hold the fan from turning and squealing. Would replacing the band be a fix? Also, what is the correct adjustment for the brake?

When I have the furling lever locked down, the “Y” arms at top are pulled down against the tower legs. They can’t go down any further. Any suggestions? By the way, when the blades are squealing, you can touch the brake band and feel the vibrations. I’m getting tired of the squealing.

[Wayne]

I'm thinking the squealing is one of those extra options they don't charge you for.

[Windy Bill]

Jerry
You will get lots of varying advice on this.

If it is a pumper and you are in freezing climates, then it should not turn at all or the pump pole needs disconnected in winter. If it is furled and still turns slow, this is a recipe for freezing.

If it is non pumper, I like the brake to work to some degree as it makes servicing easier. Most new 802s we have put up will hold the wheel solid and I think that was the intent for the brake. They seem like they hold solid for around 10 plus years and then there is enough wear on all the parts to allow some slippage. A welded nut on the brake arm is the easiest cure and there also is the longer button arms available for the furl ring.

Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO

What are you referring to as Longer Button Arms? Where can I get them? I have the mill up and do not want to remove the entire motor/fan to fix the furling lever.

[Windy Bill]

What are you referring to as Longer Button Arms? Where can I get them? I have the mill up and do not want to remove the entire motor/fan to fix the furling lever.