I loosen the inside castle nut on the main shaft and wedged it towards the outside bearing. The entire hub and main shaft slid out of the housing all in tact. I then used a slide hammer with a hook on the end to pull out the outer bearing and race. Once the outer bearing was out I was able to pull the center section with spirals on it out and the inner bearing. The inner bearing race is still in the housing. There is a snap ring keeping the inner bearing race from moving too far into the housing.
Questions: do I still need to pull the hubs off the shaft? Why risk breaking them?
Once I have the inner race out and install new race and then bearings what trick is there to pounding in a new inner race down the long tube of the housing?
How do you set the preload or the bearings you can install the outer bearing to any depth? The outer bearing does not bottom out on any thing except the tube with spirals on it.
Rebuilding Dempster 10 ft no 12
Re: Rebuilding Dempster 10 ft no 12
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Re: Rebuilding Dempster 10 ft no 12
Mine uses bower bearings number 2580 and a 2523 race what year did Dempster start using Bower and not timken ?
Re: Rebuilding Dempster 10 ft no 12
I will post the previous message I made when I can figure out what's wrong, and it won't post. I did send it jjgag via PM. Here is next post of mine, following the previous one.....
The mill has 2 preload settings. If you could assemble all the shaft items on the shaft, and with one hand press on the our race on one end, then press on the outer race on the other, you can see how the items all make a continuous connection, and by pressing on the races, you either tighten, or make loose all of the items. This is essentially what happens when you put everything together. The early Dempsters were not like this, but this is the later rendition. now.... if you push both races together on the shaft, and (with the castle nut on the pinion end) pull the end of the mainshaft, you can see how that affects the squeeze of the shaft items also.
So when you assemble the mainshaft, what is important are the thin paper gaskets that hold the front (nose) plate on. when you place the bearing cone on the shaft, then the outer race is tapped in, the outer diameter of the nose plate slides in, and pushes on the outer bearing race. The amount of 'press' by the front plate on the outer race is what determines the 'squeeze' of all the mainshaft items, all the way from the outer race in the front, to the outer race in the case. Sometimes there are a half dozen or more gaskets, sometimes there is only one. I generally use enough gaskets to be able to detect a small resistance when turning the mainshaft. If it's too tight, the mainshaft will bind up. You can use a couple pairs of vicegrips to secure the front plate while testing the number of gaskets it takes. When you actually bolt the front plate in place, it might get a bit tighter on the gaskets. Sometimes it take a few times to get it good.
The mill has 2 preload settings. If you could assemble all the shaft items on the shaft, and with one hand press on the our race on one end, then press on the outer race on the other, you can see how the items all make a continuous connection, and by pressing on the races, you either tighten, or make loose all of the items. This is essentially what happens when you put everything together. The early Dempsters were not like this, but this is the later rendition. now.... if you push both races together on the shaft, and (with the castle nut on the pinion end) pull the end of the mainshaft, you can see how that affects the squeeze of the shaft items also.
So when you assemble the mainshaft, what is important are the thin paper gaskets that hold the front (nose) plate on. when you place the bearing cone on the shaft, then the outer race is tapped in, the outer diameter of the nose plate slides in, and pushes on the outer bearing race. The amount of 'press' by the front plate on the outer race is what determines the 'squeeze' of all the mainshaft items, all the way from the outer race in the front, to the outer race in the case. Sometimes there are a half dozen or more gaskets, sometimes there is only one. I generally use enough gaskets to be able to detect a small resistance when turning the mainshaft. If it's too tight, the mainshaft will bind up. You can use a couple pairs of vicegrips to secure the front plate while testing the number of gaskets it takes. When you actually bolt the front plate in place, it might get a bit tighter on the gaskets. Sometimes it take a few times to get it good.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
Re: Rebuilding Dempster 10 ft no 12
Ok, the other preload comes into view. When it's time to install the hubs, the brake hub slides on, and is butting up against the oil seal bushing, that rides on the seal surface. On 6 and 8 ft mills, this bushing slides on the mainshaft. It sometimes gets a groove in it from riding on the seal. Also on the inside of it, there is an internal rubber O ring, that seals the shaft from oil leaking through it. There is usually a taper on the bushing, so you can slide it on the shaft, and it will enter the seal easily. Now that that bushing is good, the brake hub can slide on the shaft, and contact the bushing. Also, the outer hub slides on, and contacts the brake hub. The continuation of all the contact points of the mainshft accesories is maintained. The castle nut on the front, will pull on the castle nut on the other end of the mainshaft, pulling the end pinion gear up snug, all the way up through the mainshaft items, to the front castle nut. when tightning the front castle nut, you should not be able to push the mainshaft in and out. However if it's too tight it may bind up the mainshaft also. I usually get the caslte nut fairly tight. Usually use an impact wrench, but don't sit there and hammer on it. So now your bearings are preloaded slightly with the front plate and gaskets, and your shaft is preloaded with the castle nut.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
Re: Rebuilding Dempster 10 ft no 12
HERE IS THE PREVIOUS POST THAT I LOST EARLIER> IT"S OUT OF ORDER >>>
Glad things are going the way they supposed to. Don't know about the bearings.. Maybe been apart before.
""There is a snapring the keeps the inner bearing from going too far into the case""
No need to mess with that. Use a rod and hammer to knock the race out towards the front. Kind of a bad angle, but doable.
""Do I still need to remove the hubs?""
You need to do it for re-assembling. Press the shaft out the front of the hubs. Rest the outer hub on good support right outside the shaft diameter. Once you get the keys showing, you can remove themand press the other way, so you don't have to press the whole length of the shaft, unless you clean the shaft good and it falls out.
""Once I have the inner race out and install new race and then bearings what trick is there to pounding in a new inner race down the long tube of the housing?""
Just use a long rod to knock the race in. start the race in the case web, and hit it in using a long rod down inside the snout. The bearing cone goes in after the race goes in. I hope yours is not in backwards. Your cone should have fallen out of the race. If your cone is stuck in the race and won't fall out, then DONT put the new one in that way...I will explain that in a bit.
""How do you set the preload or the bearings you can install the outer bearing to any depth? The outer bearing does not bottom out on any thing except the tube with spirals on it.""
ok. Let me take a break and I will explain that. This is where Dempsters need understanding, because they have 2 preload settings and adjustments.
Glad things are going the way they supposed to. Don't know about the bearings.. Maybe been apart before.
""There is a snapring the keeps the inner bearing from going too far into the case""
No need to mess with that. Use a rod and hammer to knock the race out towards the front. Kind of a bad angle, but doable.
""Do I still need to remove the hubs?""
You need to do it for re-assembling. Press the shaft out the front of the hubs. Rest the outer hub on good support right outside the shaft diameter. Once you get the keys showing, you can remove themand press the other way, so you don't have to press the whole length of the shaft, unless you clean the shaft good and it falls out.
""Once I have the inner race out and install new race and then bearings what trick is there to pounding in a new inner race down the long tube of the housing?""
Just use a long rod to knock the race in. start the race in the case web, and hit it in using a long rod down inside the snout. The bearing cone goes in after the race goes in. I hope yours is not in backwards. Your cone should have fallen out of the race. If your cone is stuck in the race and won't fall out, then DONT put the new one in that way...I will explain that in a bit.
""How do you set the preload or the bearings you can install the outer bearing to any depth? The outer bearing does not bottom out on any thing except the tube with spirals on it.""
ok. Let me take a break and I will explain that. This is where Dempsters need understanding, because they have 2 preload settings and adjustments.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
Re: Rebuilding Dempster 10 ft no 12
Success I pressed the shaft out using my 30 ton press. Thank you to Windy and Dan I used support on the hub on the outer and a support tube on the inner hub ( up close to the shaft not allowing the outer part to touch while pressing).
This is going to be a wrap for awhile until I source new bearings, races, oil seal, rubber washer. Time to prep for paint and start bending my tower back into shape. More to come
This is going to be a wrap for awhile until I source new bearings, races, oil seal, rubber washer. Time to prep for paint and start bending my tower back into shape. More to come
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Re: Rebuilding Dempster 10 ft no 12
OMG I saw the first picture ans almost fainted. lol then I saw the other one. Good for you. Oh by the way, if I tell any info that is wrong, you need to let me know.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
Re: Rebuilding Dempster 10 ft no 12
Next question is the swing arm that connects the tail to the case. I want to try to remove it so I can prime and paint. It was rusted in position but I was able to free it up so it now moves. Any tricks to removing it or are the risks high you can break one of the tabs off the case?
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Re: Rebuilding Dempster 10 ft no 12
Just knock out the tailpin, and all those items fall apart. Use a nut, don't mushroom the threads. You should be able to just pull it out by hand anyway.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
Re: Rebuilding Dempster 10 ft no 12
Last piece to break free and I broke it. Now I am looking for a new used swing arm bracket. The photo shows the part number. My mistake was after heating the tail pin I should have made sure the arm was free of the pin instead of just trying to press the pin out. I was using a brass punch and had the nuts on to not screw up the threads. I don’t want to weld this back together. The struggle is real. Please check your spare parts bins.
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