Vintage Windmill and Wind Generator Forum

Thank you! I'm pretty sure this is the original tower. Excuse my ignorance on this, as this is my first experience with windmills. You said, "There is a wrong way and a right way to hook up the 'Latch" , even though it will work both ways." Where/what is the latch? I've seen where you've mentioned this many times, but I'm not quite sure what I'm looking for here.

Also, you said, "Make sure you chain is hooked to the brass swivel in the tower as high up as possible." Do you mean the chain that goes up to the hook that hooks to the vane at the top? I did try to get the chain off the lower hook inside the tower, but it seems the hook is closed so tight it won't let the chain out to adjust it. It is hooked on the very bottom link.

I was able to get the spring hooked into the second hole out in the tail instead of the first, which seemed to help some in getting the tail to swing out more perpendicular with the head. But, then I went back up and tried to get more by hooking the short side of the chain to to the top hook going out to the tail on the second link and that made the tail not want to swing out as far again. Now, I have the first two links twisted and bound up together on the hook and couldn't get them off the hook since I was out of energy from trying to pull the spring open too many times to disconnect everything with one hand while holding on for dear life with the other. Will have to climb up again a different day when I'm full of arm strength again.

Any additional insight, help, or info you have based on the above would be greatly appreciated. We have 20+ MPH winds today and it is spinning pretty good without the vane fully perpendicular and is only screeching at times when the wind picks up or dies down. Maybe I did help it a bit, but I think there's more to be gained.

Most of what you’re replying to was related to WindyBobs prior message. He can explain it best.

The latch is one of these:
There is some Baker literature via the below link.

viewtopic.php?t=84

From memory, the 7th link on the chain is the typically accepted link for the spring to be connected to, but can be adjusted to another link as necessary. I put a red line in the photo to show the 7th link.

Ok hold on, I will reply shortly. Sorry, I been hooked up and not online lately.

Ok, I will go by shop and lay out a few parts, and take some pictures. In the meantime, let's do this. Hook the chain to the upper hook. 7 links away, hook the tailspring. ( I believe it's 7. The original chain has a different link there so that you know. Replacement chains from the store dont.) I think we were hooking the tailspring in the 6th link from the upper hook. Seemed to work better here. And you need to use same as original chain. Larger link, and twist-link chains don't work as well. Ok, now from the tailspring thru the pulleys and down the turntable slot to the lower, larger hook. With the tail closed, lift up the brass swivel in the swivel cup, (WB19) with the hook on it, and have, or you pull up all the way on the hook, and maybe mark with a magic marker the link on the chain up in the tower where the link of the chain is that it will hook to.Now, open the tail, and that link should drop down, where you can get to it easier. Hook that link to the hook, and when the tail is fully closed, the hook in the tower should be at the top, but not hitting anything to stop the tail from closing. Even if you need to shove the tail fully over, do it to make sure the swivel hook doesn't hit up in the tower anywhere. Now, once you hook the chain there, you will get full advantage of the distance between the top of the bail run, and the bottom of the bail run. This is the issue that CTX had. Not enough room to pull the bail all the way down enough.

Once you have hooked things up like this, then you can adjust the tailspring in every hole in the tailframe to see what you have. The spring moves a lot easier with the tail closed ( I believe) than it does open. One way or the other. Let me know what you come up with. These tailsprings last so long, that I've seen them get weaker over time, instead of wearing out on the end. So we have had to tighten them up in the next hole (or 2) to make up for the weaker spring.

These types on Monitors ( the W series) are difficult to understand for lots of folks. Took me a long time. If you work with them all the time, it sinks in, and becomes routine. If you don;t but only work on them once in a while then it's easy to forget how they work. For me, I can hide my own Easter eggs now, so all bets are off. LOL

Thanks, windybob! When the wind isn't blowing 40 MPH here, like it is today, I'll climb back up there and see what I can do. Worst case, I'll get some pictures to show you what I have. The hardest part for me last time was stretching the spring out far enough with one hand to get everything hooked back up where I wanted it further out on the tail and to the short piece of chain coming from the top hook. The lower hook down in the tower is on the very bottom link and I couldn't get it to slide out of the hook. I believe this is the original chain since it does have the different shape link as the 7th link.

ok. Yes was windy here too. Might try some different ways to hook the spring, like maybe hook it in the chain first, then open the tail, and hook it,or vice versa. I don't remember having troubles hooking that up on the little 6 footers like that.

Windybob and others,

How often (or do you ever) use threaded studs/all thread and a nut, verses bolts and washers for W series bonnet? The two bolts that hold on the bonnet is what I’m referring to. I am finishing up on a WC rebuild and I often shake my head trying to line up the bolts. Any cons in using 3/8 studs under the bonnet and thru the bonnet holes and a nut and washer on top of the bonnet?

You won't get any negative feedback from me for that idea! I hate those things. I always grind a point on those bolts. Really helps. The good thing about your idea is that you can flip the top over and store it on one of the studs. Maybe even used it for a tool tray. Or a drink holder. LOL

Thank you

While on the W series, I have two WC vanes with tailbones. One is the older style and one is the newer vertical style. I’ve rebuilt a WC long neck, so the older style vane with 1937 stenciled is most appropriate for it.
I noted the tailbone affixed to each vane style have different spring holes set locations. They seem about a foot different, with the older tailbone/vane having the holes further back on the tailbone. Is that because the long neck’s outer swivel (WC19) is above the tower cap, as opposed to the more modern WC series with the swivel above the storm stay to allow for the same chain length? So the vane spring holes need to be further back on the long neck?

Something I found unique is the vertical vane has Axtell stenciled on it, as does the tailbone. Axtell sold Baker Monitors by the train car load, but I’ve never seen a vertical style vane with Axtell on it…just the older style.

Also something that I’ve never seen before is the vertical vane has the chain hook affixed to the tailbone. New to me, but I’m sure was common. I couldn’t readily locate the AC212 part in Baker literature either. Was that a short run?

W series mills had an option to order them as a "pull-out" mill. Speculationg that the 'one-off' hook you have was for that purpose. Been a long time since I saw a diagram of a pull-out system, however years ago I designed and made a changeover kit to do just that. just for starters I will divulge that the tailspring hooked to the setscrew for the crank gear shaft, with a metal extension bar.