Sears and Roebuck Champion (Stover): Project lost cause

[TomsWaterPumper]

I was able to devote my full Sunday to removing the main shaft, and it took all of that. My neighbor came by to lend me a hand, turns out he worked at a large chemical refinery, and is used to what I call 'big big ugly steel' corroded fasteners, big hammers and steel toed boots.

Getting the unit upright and clamped to my pluming work stand was worth the effort. Using a torch to overheat the rusted Timken bearings and 8ft cheater bar bolted to the bell-shaped hub, we managed to get the main shaft to turn. Now free, I was able to index the shaft 180deg to get at the small end of the 3/8" tapered pins, and knock them out with a punch.

I had to fashion my own tube-type puller, so I could leverage off the nose of the casting, using the main shaft's 1-1/8" threads and nut to pull the shaft out the nose. The woodruf keyed pinions were frozen onto the shaft. In fact, one of the keys sheared during the pulling operation.

[TomsWaterPumper]

The mainshaft has a bend near the nose, some corrosion/pitting, but looks straightenable. The threads are good, diameters where things lightly press onto are pretty good. An afternoon in a press w/Vee blocks and a dial indicator, I'm calling it's salvageable.

The pinion gears are another, matter I broke a tooth off one last week, and the second pinion took a hit yesterday while pulling the shaft. 2 down.

[TomsWaterPumper]

The list grows.

Broken tail vane support/pivot casting. Separate from the main body, held in place by 3 bolts. The blue lines are what I think is missing. The heavy black line is where the pivot pin goes.

Do I have that about right?

[windybob]

Well glad you finally got it! I would check Aermotor 702 pinions to see if they are alike. If they can be used (??) maybe it would be easier to re-work them as opposed to finding your somewhere. However, put an ad on the forsale section to locate replacements. You could have them welded and ground?

[windybob]

Do you have the tail, or tailpin? The drawing looks fine for now. There may be a tail-buffer-assembly that the tailpin goes thru that you need to consider.

[TomsWaterPumper]

Do you have the tail, or tailpin? The drawing looks fine for now. There may be a tail-buffer-assembly that the tailpin goes thru that you need to consider.

I have the sheetmetal tail, but no support structure, no pin, no buffer assembly. The pads that are bolted to the main body, are those stops for the tail structure, when it swings out of the way?

I'll get some pictures and dimensions of the gears and other parts I'm looking for, and put up an ad

[Mister Ed]

Yep get that add up and also shoot Dan Benjamin a note to see what he might have used or recast.

[windybob]

Those could be buffer pads, if so, then there may be springs on the tail casting. I will check my little 6 footer and see if there is a clue there.

[Mister Ed]

Windy, just noticed the hub for the first time ... isn't that a model S or W hub? That is about the only thing I think I know about Stovers. No clue what the differences are.

[windybob]

They had a Mod S ( early) and a Mod M (later) and also a little known Mod W ( earlier than the S) However, the Champion by sears was a Mod M. So the Windmill Bible says.

Forgot to look today, but I'm pretty sure that is a bumper for the spring loaded buffer. I think I have a picture......

Here's my 8 ft M The circle indicates the bumper which pushes the spring. Also, notice below the tailpin mount on the case. There is a tail pullout arm casting mounting below the case tab. I don't know about the 10 ft model, that's why I was wondering about all the hardware before welding something up.

Stovers were really popular. I bet you can find the parts you need, eliminating a lot of fabbing.

Stover Mod M 8 ft Buffer spring 2 ed.jpg