Vintage Windmill and Wind Generator Forum

Kevinwterry wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 2024 2:01 pm Thanks again Ctxmiller for taking the time to get me some measurements. Really appreciate it!!

I'm thinking about building the 702 style with the angle iron. Seems stronger to me. A couple questions I have is does the 2 short vertical sections in the middle swivel or are they in a fixed position? I think one mounts to the large spring. And what are all the holes for on the top portion? Govenor adjustments? Dont quite understand how that system works yet. I think it has to tie into the brake system somehow. I'm still waiting on some parts I ordered, I'm sure it will make more sense after that.

The 702 tailbone with the angle iron is more solid than the 602 tailbone.

The vertical sections are all fixed solid via rivets. The larger vertical section on the tailbone bolts to the buffer as there is a hole in that larger vertical section for a bolt. The multiple holes are for the spring adjustment for furling preference…lighter wind to stronger wind.

right! My mistake. you guys are correct. I better start reading (more) better. lol

Been there,done that myself Bob !!

windybob wrote: ↑Thu Jun 13, 2024 7:52 pm most folks are at the trade fair. There has b een a LOT of discussion about paint. Try a search here up top for paint, cold galvanize, galvanizing paint, etc/ Only 10 ft 602 gears work.

Any ideas on paint? Cold galvanized paint didnt stick to new steel. Its for repairs only. I want something durable as in I dont want to paint this stub tower again. I've stripped it down to steel again, now in primer, but it needs a top coat soon. It's now welded to a metal 4x4 pallet so I'm hoping to get it out of the shop so I can start installing the wheel

We use Van Sickle premium aluminum, but due to weather, and all the outdoor conditions, I can't recommend a certain kind, just say what works for us. Might check with the local paint pro shop, or visit with a pro painter and see what works good in your area. The eventual satisfactory end to your issue is hot dip galvanize, if anyone is within driving range.

We went with just a medium gray for everything I'm fabricating. The aluminum color was too bright for my wife and I. I tried 4 different colors on a test piece of scrap and this is what we thought was best for our situation.

So anyways, got the blades installed. This picture is from earlier today, since then I've got the spoke braces cut and installed. The platform is made and I'm now waiting on it to dry so i can install it. I remember windybob saying in either this post or another one I read "it's better to be 6" too low than 1/2" too high" . Well I was an 1/4" too high so instead of 2 2x12 tall I went with a 2x12 and a 1x12 for the platform.So now it's pretty much as high as possible. I think I'll add a angle iron step higher because standing at the platform I cant see much and I'm 5-10.

Next step is building the tail bone. I bought material today and kindof started fabricating it.

Thanks everyone again for your help. Without it this project would still be sitting on a couple of pallets.

Looks good to me

Looks great

Many years of pleasure to see. Very nice.

I don't think you get the Aermotor wheel under tension strength by assembling it like a Southern Cross.

Your furl lever appears to be the whole way open but the lower furl ring is not sitting on the end of the stub angles? The mounting holes are to be 16" from angle end to hole center.

I have encountered enough home made stub angles that there is a recommended way to fab. You need to weld the mast to the stub angles at four tabs at the top. The masts that are not welded will eventually loosen because there is no tower clamp.

Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO