Fairbanks Morse Model 45- rebuild

[windybob]

Paul what a bunch of great ideas! Thanks!

[FlJet]

Sprayed it down with PB Blaster and went to an 8 and under soccer game this morning. Came back and gently coaxed the shaft out of the hub with a socket and a big ball peak hammer. Just let the hammer fall 8-10” each time. Mostly I was trying to jar loose any rust and help the PB Blaster penetrate, but once I noticed it moving I just kept at it. I did hit the inside of the hub while I was drilling, but just a little. I’ll probably fill it with JB Weld and file it back down. If I do anything about it. I was expecting a shoulder on the shaft at the back of the hub to keep the hub from rubbing the case but it looks like maybe there was a groove cut for a snap ring maybe?

Not sure If the pictures show it, but there’s two pins in the shaft. Not sure what they where for or if I need them when I remake this. The shiny spots on the shaft around the pond was already there when I pulled it. Not sure why. Looks like it was welded and ground down. But why?

Now for the shaft.

[FlJet]

Not that I am that smart, but I have always had the best luck heating the shaft and the hub from in the middle of the drilled hole. I then cool the shaft by putting water in the drilled hole. (Shrinks the shaft but not the hub)While putting in the water put the shaft under pressure with the press. Press it from the bottom of the hole not the top.(Don't drill the hole deeper than the part that is in the hub because if you get the hole in the shaft to big and long you may split the shaft apart where it comes out of the hub)It may take a dozen times of doing this, but It has always worked for me. You might consider drilling the key completely out because you have allreday drilled it some)and when you put the new shaft in drill a hole that straddles the shaft and hub and thread it and install a bolt instead of a key.( cuts out machinist bill of cutting a a key way in the new shaft)I Leave the shaft sticking out of the hub a little and spot weld the bolt to the end of the shaft. Someone can then grind the weld off an unscrew the bolt with no trouble if or when a new shaft is needed.
You have already drilled the key, but my solution is to put a spot weld on the end of the key so that it becomes bigger than the key way and the key will remain in the hub.(Do not weld the key to the shaft in the process.The reason this works is most of the time the taper key way is cut in the hub)Cut a pipe bigger than the shaft and longer than the recess in the hub so you are pressing the against the solid part of the hub and not the thin outer part.
THAT'S MY STORY AND I AM STICKING TO IT!!

Paul, based on your description, I’m picturing two different ways of drilling the hub/shaft when I put it back together. Any chance you have any pictures of the way you do this? Certainly sounds easier than cutting a key way in the shaft.

[windybob]

Well, glad you got it!

I have no threads on either side of mine. I have no shoulder on mine. ( smaller mill, smaller gears and shafts).
I wonder if your shaft has been replaced? Don't know about the 'Pins" or (knobs) on it. Unless it was to hold the Hyatt in place when inserting it in the snout. (?) I'm guessing the remainder of the Hyatt is still in there. If it were brass, it would be in better shape maybe.
What's next?

[FlJet]

Ok, yeah be careful. I'm guessing someone had it apart. The heavy brass bearing are not factory. Supposed to be Hyatt bearing. Hope you get it!

I'm still trying to get my mainshaft out of the case! It is totally frozen in the snout. I will have to run it to a machine shop I guess. I don't have a set of tanks any more, if I did, I could roast it out. I know the bearing is nothing but rust. I'm going to babbitt mine back.

What kind of snout bearing do you have? Don't recall seeing a picture of it.

I need to check these for wear. Especially the pinion bearing. With all that shaft missing up front it was putting that back bearing in a bind. How much clearance is optimal? How much is acceptable? I’m going to be pumping water and I want this lasting. Last thing I want to do is install it all and end up taking it back down in a handful of years to re-rebuild it.

[FlJet]

Well, glad you got it!

I have no threads on either side of mine. I have no shoulder on mine. ( smaller mill, smaller gears and shafts).
I wonder if your shaft has been replaced? Don't know about the 'Pins" or (knobs) on it. Unless it was to hold the Hyatt in place when inserting it in the snout. (?) I'm guessing the remainder of the Hyatt is still in there. If it were brass, it would be in better shape maybe.
What's next?

So your pinions were pinned to the shaft right? What about the hub? What kept it on the shaft? And what keeps the hub from walking back into the snout?

[windybob]

No pins in the hub. Press-fit with a key. Many mills are like that. Bigger ones can have some improvements due to load/ wind/ weight, etc. Pinions had no keys either, just 1 pin each. No nut on the back pinion, or in front of the hub. There is a wire wrapped around the shaft from the pinion up to the snout bearing for oil transfer, nothing fancy, but it needs wrapped in the proper direction.

There are tabs on the (trunion) sticking out towards the front pinion. 3 tabs, maybe 1/8 protruding, tops. There was a washer, then the gear. That took the thrust of the wheel, and also left a gap for oil to get in. Look close, maybe you have tabs on yours, however, with aftermarket bearings, they might have been machined off.

Most mills have down thrust on both snout and pedastal, or (trunion) bearing for the crank gears. That being said, some even have brass or babbitt that can be rotated 180 for a new surface. Most do not. Also, you should have an oil return passage from the snout back to the case. That gets clogged a lot. IF...a portion of your hub goes back into the snout, see if it has an oil slinger on it I will check mine next week. There might be means of getting the oil off the shaft before it runs out the snout. A washer, a spring, or something. Seems I remember something on the back of the hub on this one.

[FlJet]

Here’s the drawing of 107- “Wheel Shaft with nuts and cotters”

85- spider nut
86- spider but washer
84- spider key
87- spider snap ring
50- oil slinger
44- nose bearing
91- thrust collar
45- Oiler spring
55- pinion bearings
59- pinion thrust washer
54- pinions (set)
58- pinion take up nut washer
57- pinion take up nut

The hub nut and pinion nut were both castle nuts with cotter pins. Nothing on this drawing shows those pins I have around the nose bearing area. Nothing on the hub looks like an oil slinger of any sort.

[windybob]

Now that's handy! Also answers a lot of questions. Great that you posted that, because I don't have one for my 6 footer, #55 looks like a spacer or bearing? Proves that yours has been worked over before.

You wouldn't happen to have one for a 6 footer?

[FlJet]

I sent you a PM with what I've gathered let me know if they make it, there's three pdf files. Some of the part numbers are different, but the 6 and 8 footers do share some parts. The parts diagram is not actually model specific. Same parts diagram for the 6, 8, 10 and 12 foot models.