Vintage Windmill and Wind Generator Forum

OK, I'm game. After erecting a few towers using different means, I have finally settled on a procedure to get it right the first time.

To get a 4 corner tower base/ground mounts in perfect angular orientation, I now remove the bottom section of the tower (usually 6 or so ft high) and place it into the position that I want. Then I can dig the holes for the foundation columns and attach the in-ground irons. I then level the base tower section and fill the holes with concrete. When dry, I can remove the base tower section from the ground mounts and put it back onto the upper stages.

Now when I raise the complete tower, either with my boom lift of front end loader, the foundation mount bolt holes line up perfectly with the tower base legs (position and angles and bolt it up home. No need for bending the angle irons, re-drilling bolt holes or settling for a crooked tower.

Excellent idea,thanks

I dp basicly the same thing. Make a square frame that mounts on the bottom of tower . An idea I first saw at Spearman. After getting it fitted and all holes drilled. I place it on the ground mark and dig holes. Then put anchors in, level and pour concrete. Once concrete sets up, and you mount frame on tower and raise it every thing matches. One side of frame has my hinge plates the other side tie down plates.

Good info thanks

Here's an example of one way I have done the anchors. Cut the boards on 7 degrees, line up the ends and then bolt the anchor legs into the corners. Level in all directions and concrete in place.

A good percentage of the windmills I work on are on 100 year old wood towers, the Dug Fir 4x4s or 6x6s last amazingly well here and usually just need resheathed if that, the problem is, they are never true, I suppose the prevailing wind might do it or maybe a twist in a leg from a defect, but if you center your tower over the well, the head is usually off several inches, lots of guys try to cheat it by jacking up one corner and we all know how that ends. I usually drive some stakes and put a beam across the base and lift it up on a calm day to figure just how it stands because it changes from its laying position. If you have access to a big telehandler or crane, its nice to hang the tower and steak it where you want it exactly over the well and then plant your legs, depending on soil, sometimes tamped dead men are better than concrete. If you end up dead center of the well and your wheel doesn't hit on one corner, high fives to everyone involved, LOL

I have seen the pressure treated posts 4X4 or 6X6 used for a sign post or a wood frame shed. Even a high line pole. If they are put in the ground and no boards nailed to them twist very bad. If you look at them they are twister on the top to the West. This is from the sun coming up in the East and setting in the West. The sun as it goes East to West will twist the post to the West.
Terry

I have done a few anchor sets only but usually set mill and tower and attach anchors.

We do a variation of Todd's method. Instead of cutting exact length 2X4 we have four 10' 2x4s that have the length of 27 & 33 towers sides marked on the angle. Each 10' 2x4 is allowed to run wild. An added benefit is that the run wild end is far enough away from the anchor hole to allow support from either blocking or form stake. I have never had the bottoms of all four holes level and usually 3 anchors are dangling. We put a 45 brace on each corner to keep a square instead of a trapezoid.

Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO

I had a satellite dish on a 4x4 post. I was always having to go out and reset it because of the twisting post. Makes you wonder how did they get it all square back in the day of nothing but wooden towers!

Probably 90% of the windmills we work on in the field are not centered over the well. However, most have been there for many years. Rare to find one that's really good.