Vintage Windmill and Wind Generator Forum

Hello everyone, I’m wanting to rebuild an old family windmill I have. It is a X-702. Never disabled a mill before. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry everyone, disassembled.

Mark , welcome to the windmillers web site . There is LOTS of really smart people who have shared their knowledge swith us who are pure novices .
Look back in the technical section , lessons learned and others .
There is lots of photos of dissembly of Aermotor motors .
And, don't be afread to ask questions .
Mike B
New Braunfels TX

Thanks a bunch Mike. Will do regarding looking back in technical section.

Mark , take a look at the Aremotor web site . They are located out in west Texas .
All the new parts , ( bearings ) that you will need to refurbish your motor .
The great thing is the expolded view of how the parts fit together . Which also means how to dissemble .

Thanks I sure will.

One the snoot “rings” how close should they be? The top is worn down some. The mill will be used for yard art only and will be in the furled position 95% of the time.

One the snoot “rings” how close should they be? The top is worn down some.

The thickness of 10 wt oil. Wear on the snout ring is elliptical from 9 to 3 oclock with the most at 12.

The mill will be used for yard art only and will be in the furled position 95% of the time.

My usual reply to this is "If you want it to swivel, rotate, not make noise or leak oil..."

There is a difference between a rebuild and a reassembly with new shafts and bearings. Bringing back to specs of snout ring and tail pin holes and hoop wear from the guide wheel are included in a rebuild. Make sure the inside of your hub has a defined lip where the snout ring meets. If your Aermotor is one of the later castings that has a bridge between the snout ring and the oil collector pond, you will want to cut a groove on the oil collector side of the snout ring. FIASA continued this style snout and that along with their porous castings gave them the notoriety of being oil leakers.

Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO

Ron, the casting is 1950, I am putting new hub, shaft and all moving parts on the inside with the exception of the bull gears. But you may have to explain a bit more about cutting the groove.

A 1950 snout should look like the one at 3 oclock. The other 2 are later, still in the process of rebuilding the ring



This is what a later Aer and FiASA will look like, that is the groove to cut in





Since you have a new hub coming and it will be the spool type, you can easily see in to visually inspect the clearance around the snout ring




Ron