Hello! And thanks in advance for the guidance

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Wayne
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Re: Hello! And thanks in advance for the guidance

Post by Wayne »

Hope I can explain this so it's understandable. Imagine cutting the top of the tower off so you have a 4 five ft legs. You are making a stub tower. You need a top casting and a storm stay to make a stub tower. After you get the castings mounted and have the stub tower. et it on the ground and mount 2x4's to the bottoms of the the legs, one 2x4 going out in all 4 directions. The 2x4's should be about 4 to 5 ft long and fastened to both legs on a side. I know how to do it not sure about telling maybe someone will post a picture. I'll try later today.
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windybob
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Location: Ames Oklahoma

Re: Hello! And thanks in advance for the guidance

Post by windybob »

Making a work stand can take many avenues. As long as the wheel does not hit anything, and the stand is stable enough to hold off-center weight, and allow the head to rotate you are good.

You can even weld a pipe that's larger than the neckpipe of the mill to legs. the head can slip into the pipe. About 3 ft down, put another piece of pipe in to steady the head.
Elgin Wonder.jpeg
stub tower 2.jpeg
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Windcatcher530 Dan
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Location: Alcove N.Y.i buy and restore

Re: Hello! And thanks in advance for the guidance

Post by Windcatcher530 Dan »

I made this to put my mills together
20220301_102850_HDR.jpg
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Oldwindmill
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Location: Sonoma County, Ca

Re: Hello! And thanks in advance for the guidance

Post by Oldwindmill »

Thank you!

Also I did some cleaning to the ring gear. Lots of old grease. In doing so I removed this arm (not sure of its name). But I’m assuming this is where the Babbitt bearings I keep reading about are? Also it appears there is some type of oiler built into this arm. Couple questions related to this.

1. On each arm end in what appears to be oil tubes it looks like there are channels to where a bearing would be. On one end I can stick my screwdriver through on the other the bearing is in the way. Is this by design? How should they be poured correctly?

2. Is there anyway to ensure the oiling function is operating as it should be prior to reassembly?

3. Are there any other Babbitt bearings in this windmill? Around the main shaft which led to the fan itself there appeared to be some type of ceramic plate (almost like a brake pad). Is this something that I should be reusing or finding new somewhere? Or? Most of them are somewhat intact.

Thank you! If more photos are needed please let me
know.
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Oldwindmill
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Re: Hello! And thanks in advance for the guidance

Post by Oldwindmill »

Here’s a photo of the ceramic pads I was referring too.
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windybob
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Re: Hello! And thanks in advance for the guidance

Post by windybob »

The first pictures look to be the pitman arm. It connects the gear with the lift items. Actually, that's what turns circular motion into up and down motion. Yes that is babbitt, or what's left of it. First thing is to check the shaft, (pin) that goes thru it. If it's not nice and round it will just eat out new babbitt. Once you get a good pin then you can pour new babbitt for it, OR....you can have a machinist fit a brass sleeve in there instead of babbitt. Also, looks like there is a crack in it. Second picture shows it. The hole is for oiling, yes.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number.
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windybob
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Re: Hello! And thanks in advance for the guidance

Post by windybob »

Also, all those items need cleaned up. The caps are for shafts. Either the mainshaft, or the big gear shaft. they have bearings in them for the shafts to ride on. the mainframe has the bottom bearings and the bearing caps go on top. The bearings may be made of babbitt, or wood, or pressed graphite. Either way, the bottom side will be worn out, the topside may not be worn that much. The force on the bearings is down, rarely up. Between where the top cap fit onto the bearing holder on the bottom, there may be shims. These are there so that the caps are not too tight to bind up the shafts. The bolts that hold the caps on are a lot of times double-nutted to stay where the bearings fit properly, so they don't back out. A lot of times, the nuts and bolts are not too tight on the bearing caps. if they are, the tabs break off. The double-nut scenario keeps the bolt from getting loose.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number.
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windybob
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Re: Hello! And thanks in advance for the guidance

Post by windybob »

Square holes, / slotted holes are usually for carraige bolts. The heads have a square shank under them, and the square slots keep them from turning. also saves you from using a wrench on the head.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number.
Oldwindmill
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Re: Hello! And thanks in advance for the guidance

Post by Oldwindmill »

You are seeing a crack on the pitman arm? Maybe a bad photo angle, I’m not seeing it. Here’s another of the area you might be referring too?

Also if I’m not planning on pumping anything is it even worthwhile to reconnect the pitman arm to the shaft? Or does it serve some other purpose that I’m not aware of?

Thanks!
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windybob
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Re: Hello! And thanks in advance for the guidance

Post by windybob »

Woodmans pitman ed.jpg
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