Foot Valve Technicality! Need HELP!

[andrevh51@gmail.com]

I've recently resurrected a super old (60+ y/o) water well. 2" casing, clayton mark closed top 1 13/16" brass cylinder pump placed at 255'. Reciprocating rod action provided by my 1940's montgomery ward rod pump. after 6 months of use my well system pumps water great, but after setting for over a few hours it completely loses prime back down to the water level in the casing. This would indicate to me that my check valve integral to the bottom of the cylinder has failed or stuck open. Would this sound correct? When I pull everything up to inspect (a huge undertaking) I want to make sure I can put something better back down to prevent this from happening again soon. I've thought about doubling up and adding a second screened foot valve to the female threads at the bottom of the well cylinder pump. In theory, would my cylinder still function properly with this additional and redundant check/foot valve? Thanks in advance!

[windybob]

We have often used a redundand foot valve/ screen check under a cylinder with no issues. All our wells here are fairly shallow with water level at 15-60 feet. If you do install one, stay away from the ones that have any plastic parts.

[mtblah]

Andrew , heed the advice of the Guru's

[Ron Stauffer]

If the check valve was truly stuck open, it would drain in seconds not hours down to water level.

You could also have a leaky filling, hole on the drop pipe or just dirt in the checks. There has to be dirt in both of the checks or you wouldn't lose with it just standing.. Almost always one of the checks will hold the water column.

Turn the mill off and let sit for a day. Turn back on. When you have a good strong steady 10 to 15 MPhil wind. Half the time it will self clean.

Ron Stauffer
Montrose COI70