I got it off the old shaft and plan to use it on the rebuild. It is a unique brass washer, like you said…oil grooves on both sides.Windcatcher530 Dan wrote: ↑Mon Nov 13, 2023 8:54 am Michael that washer with the oil grooves on the main shaft looks like it's brass and is the same as used on Bell Hubs.
B602
Re: B602
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Re: B602
Some progress.
Pitman arms, new bushings…bronze sleeve bushings verse Babbitt.
I’ve never seen a thread where someone removed an Aermotor mast pipe cup, possibly because it is just easy to do, so I took a few photos. The cup just tapped off with a hammer and penetrating oil.
Because this 602 with the flipper is an old one, it uses flat washers as its turntable. I tried to flip the mast pipe cup over and add a washer like Ron mentioned. While the cup obviously fits, it doesn’t fully seat once flipped over because the mast pipe cup hole appears cupped (sort of like a cupped cup ). Thus I’m dry fitting three washers and thrust washer. The dry running thrust washer is rated at 16,650lbs @30 rpms, so it should handle a 400lb gearbox that rotates once or less a minute at the mast pipe.
What is the desired clearance of the mast pipe in the gearbox? I’m a hair more than 1/8”.
Pitman arms, new bushings…bronze sleeve bushings verse Babbitt.
I’ve never seen a thread where someone removed an Aermotor mast pipe cup, possibly because it is just easy to do, so I took a few photos. The cup just tapped off with a hammer and penetrating oil.
Because this 602 with the flipper is an old one, it uses flat washers as its turntable. I tried to flip the mast pipe cup over and add a washer like Ron mentioned. While the cup obviously fits, it doesn’t fully seat once flipped over because the mast pipe cup hole appears cupped (sort of like a cupped cup ). Thus I’m dry fitting three washers and thrust washer. The dry running thrust washer is rated at 16,650lbs @30 rpms, so it should handle a 400lb gearbox that rotates once or less a minute at the mast pipe.
What is the desired clearance of the mast pipe in the gearbox? I’m a hair more than 1/8”.
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Re: B602
Very nice Micheal your clearance on the mast pipe should be fine. Did you have to machine the bushings to fit in the pitman arms?
Re: B602
I cleaned up a few parts.
As previously mentioned, there is a spiral oil channel in the bull gear boss. You can see it, but only faintly feel it.
There is a hollowed area of the gearbox. Had a few spider type egg sacks in there (view from the bottom of the gearbox).
I’m still leaning towards putting the oil flipper back in it as it will be a weekend spinner and not a pumper. If I regret doing so once it is 33’ in the air, I’d like to be able to switch out the yoke to the oil ring yoke. I have both pump rods that would fit in either style yoke. I’m able to add and remove the flipper yoke from the guide wheel, but the yoke with the ring I can’t. There are some differences between the two, other than the ring and flipper contact; namely the location of the pointy part on the yoke that helps oil into the guide wheel. If I shaved off a 1/8 of an inch off of that pointy party, I’d think I could switch it out…if I had to while on a tower. Thoughts on shaving off an 1/8” off that pointy party?
Thanks
As previously mentioned, there is a spiral oil channel in the bull gear boss. You can see it, but only faintly feel it.
There is a hollowed area of the gearbox. Had a few spider type egg sacks in there (view from the bottom of the gearbox).
I’m still leaning towards putting the oil flipper back in it as it will be a weekend spinner and not a pumper. If I regret doing so once it is 33’ in the air, I’d like to be able to switch out the yoke to the oil ring yoke. I have both pump rods that would fit in either style yoke. I’m able to add and remove the flipper yoke from the guide wheel, but the yoke with the ring I can’t. There are some differences between the two, other than the ring and flipper contact; namely the location of the pointy part on the yoke that helps oil into the guide wheel. If I shaved off a 1/8 of an inch off of that pointy party, I’d think I could switch it out…if I had to while on a tower. Thoughts on shaving off an 1/8” off that pointy party?
Thanks
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Re: B602
Thank you.Windcatcher530 Dan wrote: ↑Sun Dec 24, 2023 11:36 am Very nice Micheal your clearance on the mast pipe should be fine. Did you have to machine the bushings to fit in the pitman arms?
Sort of, but I’d use the word “machine” lightly. Meaning, I ran some sand paper over the inside and outside of the bushing to get what I’d call a perfect fit. With McMaster-Carr and their bushings selections, it was nearly a perfect fit to start with, just needed less than a hair adjustment for the best fit.
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- Posts: 1947
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Re: B602
WOW that's awesome. Talk about a time saver on the bushings.
Re: B602
I've know several folks that have changed Babbitt over to brass. Nothing wrong with that. I also think the clearance with the mastpipe in the case is good. If you notice, under the umbrella washer, there is a machined 'hump' to allow the oil to drain away from the opening. very important.
I think later in years, what they did was to provide a oil weep in the case web to allow a bit of oil to get into the head/mastpipe bore area for lubrication, also to weep down enough for the turntable. However, I think they mostly experimented with where to put it, as I've seen none, to weep holes in different places.
On the yoke, keep in mind, that the reason they changed the oiling feed flipper around to the ring, is due to....if the mill runs backwards, it wrecks the flipper. ( I have read this more than once) We all have seen mills run backwards temporarily as the wind changes, or the turntable gets a little rough working. Might keep this in mind. Otherwise, everything as far as my eye can see, is looking good.
I think later in years, what they did was to provide a oil weep in the case web to allow a bit of oil to get into the head/mastpipe bore area for lubrication, also to weep down enough for the turntable. However, I think they mostly experimented with where to put it, as I've seen none, to weep holes in different places.
On the yoke, keep in mind, that the reason they changed the oiling feed flipper around to the ring, is due to....if the mill runs backwards, it wrecks the flipper. ( I have read this more than once) We all have seen mills run backwards temporarily as the wind changes, or the turntable gets a little rough working. Might keep this in mind. Otherwise, everything as far as my eye can see, is looking good.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number.
Re: B602
While dry fitting a bonnet (or really after dry fitting a few bonnets), I noticed all bonnets fit ill. Upon further inspection, the hoop has a slight bend. At the top of the hoop, it is about 1/4” or maybe 5/16” leaning towards the snoot. This matches how the bonnet fits, as riding high at the back of the gearbox by 1/4” or maybe 5/16” and maybe a little too low towards the snoot. So the bonnet sits how the hoop sits with a slight lean to where water has a chance of getting in the gearbox from the back of the gearbox, if left as is.
To fix this, should I take the hoop off OR can I get that 1/4” or so back by leverage, while leaving the hoop installed? If the consensus is to remove the hoop, I remove those two rivets and then remove the hoop exactly how - with the guide wheel still in place? Small bottle jack and some blocks of wood as cushion? Thanks
To fix this, should I take the hoop off OR can I get that 1/4” or so back by leverage, while leaving the hoop installed? If the consensus is to remove the hoop, I remove those two rivets and then remove the hoop exactly how - with the guide wheel still in place? Small bottle jack and some blocks of wood as cushion? Thanks
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Re: B602
Michael what I've done in the past to take the hoop off is with the wheel at the bottom out of the way i took a small block of oak against the hoop and took a hammer and hit up against the block to knock the hoop off. Windy has done way more than me and probably has a better way.