Vintage Windmill and Wind Generator Forum

Bill , you found your self a keeper . It is amazing how little wear I see , but then again I am old , complete assmbly inc the tower .
on the cross bar that holds to helmet on and aligns the guide rods there are 2 set screws , square heads , take them out and "tap " up on the cross bar to remove , step 1 of many .

Agreed…a keeper.

I can't view the pictures, I don't have 'word'. Maybe Paul can do something....

windybob wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 6:14 pm I can't view the pictures, I don't have 'word'. Maybe Paul can do something....

Edited original post to include the pics.

WOW! Now that I can view the pics your mill looks to be in great condition especially the gears great find !!

Paul , you are a computer wizard ......... how do you know how to do that stuff .

Thanks Paul. Much appreciated. I can make a few observations now. After more coffee, I can offer up some comments. Ahhh, coffee...

Ok a couple things to kick off the day. I'm thinking that 8 ft model 12 is from around the 50's or 60's. No ribs on the end of the sails, which they later did. however, it's a 5 section wheel, downsized from the 6 section that was from an earlier 8 ft. The front hub, (short version) was later replaced by one that had a longer reach to go back to meet the brake hub. This model is easier to take the hubs off of. do not be hitting the tabs on the hubs to remove them. it has the later style brake (shoe) which is good. The brake hub appears to be in good shape and not worn much. I am quite sure that this model has the earlier , felt-type oil seal in the front. Not a problem, in fact some like it better than the newer full circle rubber seal. The turntable cup has come together, as the balls in it are shot, and the top 1/2 is riding on the bottom cup, causing it to freeze up, and the head rotating in it will cut the neckpipe off. Note the cutting groove at the top of the neckpipe. All in all a good builder, parts are available, and some parts are even used on the 6 ftt and 8 foot both. The pumprod swivel is likely froze up, but like lots of other things on your mill, there are tricks, fixes, and things to be aware of. Holler with questions, or maybe even search the site for dempster info. My writings should be available.

Well I spent 2 hours using wood wedges behind the cross bar and using a hardwood block to tapped against the back side of the cross bar. Also lots of penetrating oil. Well, stupid me, tapped one time too many and the cross bar flew off, landed on my concrete floor and broke. Not sure if that part, #1330, is available or not. I've welded cast before with some success but am by no means a professional welder. I've attached some more photos. Not sure where to go from here. I'm have back surgery on Monday and will be down for a while. Maybe things will loosen up by the time I can get back working on the project.

Yeah, those things are no problem to find. Take you angle grinder with a thin cutting disk and cut the shaft between the pitman arm and yoke, unless things are free enough to knock the pin out. If you do,, or if you don't, the bullgears will come out now.