fly ball governors or electric dump load

[EarthQuaker]

Hi, question: Are any type of fly ball or mechanical centrifugal force over-speed governors less effective then dump load over-speed control? I do see some larger 5000 watt and bigger wind turbines that have mechanical air governors. I'm wondering where the "cross-over" point is in wattage out put that electric dump loads are not desired. I have built a couple of wind turbines years ago with 9ft 3 bladed fixed pitch 1000 watt units. I tried an off-set furling tail system...both had over-speed issues still. Home built slip rings etc.
Here is hypothetical curiosity I might pursue: If you had 2 exact 2000 watt PMA's. One with the recommended fiberglass blades, 3 to 5 blades etc.
The 2nd unit run by a 9 ft 250 rpm belt drive 3:1 speed increaser, but this unit has DIY hub mounted air speed governor. I have been under assumption from reading all my old Marcellus Jacobs interviews etc...a constant speed prop will produce more energy.

[mtblah]

OK Mikee , this one is for you ! Way outside of anything in my brain .

[EarthQuaker]

Need to add clarity: I am building a bench test model of a "Centrifugal Force Activated" self feathering prop system. Im setting it up to not exceed 250 rpm about. (Previous turbines I used 7:1 belt drive on auto style alternator...before today's pma and pmg's). Want to use a Thermadyne Max Core or equal...or any pma that will put out 1500 to 2000 watts @ 500 to 800 rpms. I want to use a 9 or 10 ft 3 blade self-feathering prop system on it. Ive done enough testing to match prop weight to spring tension in the hub so in a low wind they always return to about 10 degree in to the wind. Im semi-retired from my excavating business...have always been a DIY in welding, fabricating etc. This part hobby, part serious research. I do have my 140 deep well pump off grid. Now..Im looking to run a Heat Pump heating and cooling. Have 8 Interstate 903s batteries..but they need up-graded. I live in central Oregon...4 to 5 hours of good wind off the Cascade mountain range daily, great solar area to.

[Wind Charger Mike]

Not sure I have an answer you’re looking for. I’m really only familiar with (and a fan of) the early machines which were all DC. Dump resistors weren’t in their vocabulary. The last thing you want to do with a DC gen is wear out the brushes and throw the power away. Some of the mfg did have field control so as to not overcharge the batteries. Every mfg of pre REA had their mechanical governor to regulate speed. Many of those could be overpowered by high winds so they would have a fail safe means to lock it down, either by furling the tail or a drum brake. Of course you have to be there to lock it down with the drum brake. Even the drum brakes could be overpowered with high enough wind. Winpower’s drum brake was undersized and I’ve heard stories of those machines screaming in a storm. I know Marcellus preferred direct drive over gears. He said the 1500W twin was a mistake, 9:1 gearbox and noisy. Hi speed generators have a higher power density, can be cheaper to mfg but there’s that gearbox, power loss and maintenance. I don’t recall his comment on constant speed, I’m guessing he was referring to the governors ability to keep the gen in its design sweet spot and sufficient energy storage to smooth out wind variability….makes sense.

[EarthQuaker]

Thanks for response: In my application im using a low rpm alternator PMA like Thermadyne, or Hurricane Power in California, or Missouri Wind & soar offer. They would be ac, 3 wires to rectifier etc.
I am completing restoration of my 200 watt Wincharger but that will be part novelty, part battery charging only...no modification. Except I sure would like to know what the additional old electronics were attached to back of generator with a 12 or14 guage wire.

[Wind Charger Mike]

I believe the voltage regulator was a kit option for the 1222H model. I opened the box of a NOS one and snapped a couple pics. Hope it helps.