Flint & Walling working barrel rebuild

[Jim Corcoran]

Does anyone have any experience rebuilding old working barrels? I could use some help. I have a Flint & Walling well head I’m restoring (display only) and I’m pretty much done except for the working barrel. This is an unused barrel that was stored for 85+ years. As you can imagine it has its share of rust, corrosion, and mouse residue.

Any suggestions on how to secure the barrel and unscrew the end caps? I’m sure the F & W factory had special wrenches or hold downs just for this purpose - which I don’t. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Jim

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[mtblah]

Jim , as nice as that brass barrel I would not it scared up either , maybe a leather strap would hold the brass tight & safe from scratches ,,

[windybob]

hold one end in a chain vice, and see if the other end loosens. I would hold the top, and try to unscrew the bottom. The reason is, if you get the bottom off, you can lightly hold the barrel and heat the top and maybe loosen it. If you heat the bottom, and it has anything other than brass in it, the heat may damage it. I have learned that even though brass cylinders are fairly stout, excess tightening of a vise or pipewrench can damage it. If it is open clear thru, the end with the most parts will take more heat.

[Jim Corcoran]

Bob,
Thanks for the input about the chain vise and applying heat. I really don't feel comfortable about putting a torch to it...but then.

A couple of additional rookie questions for you:

1. Do the end caps have to be removed to get the inner parts out? It doesn't appear so to me. The inner parts are stuck in place for now.
2. In the attached image, what holds the piece marked with an X in place? Is it threaded or should it just slide out as well?

Thanks again for your help.

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[windybob]

I would heat them and take the end caps off. Some of those load all the innards from the top.Sometimes the bottom check has a leather cup that seals to the cylinder and threads to lock in the lower check. I don't see anyway to hurt the cylinder if you heat the end caps a bit to swell them, and help them become looser to remove.