Babbit bearing install

[Adobejoe]

Putting the long bearing and shaft together the babbit lead is blocked by a small threaded part (711). Oil socket. This part that receives the oil collector interferes with the Babbit. Question= do I file off babbit lead until it clears or does this piece (711) knock out? It looks like a press fit?

See pics for clarity.

Andy

[windybob]

In a perfect world, the bearing should slide in. What is that tab hanging down in the oil collector port? Is that a screwdriver so we can see what youl're talking about?

You can put a bolt in the oil collecter treads, and hit it to knock it out into the snout. It is peened over on top without getting in the way of the threads. I made a tool to insert into the bearing after installing, to hold the collector base, and to re-peen it over. Use a small blunt punch. Be careful!

Look carefully to make sure it's like I said. Changes in design would not surprise me.

[Adobejoe]

Yes, tab is a screwdriver to show where I am talking about. Might be easiest to shave off top part of babbit I will have to think about this a bit. Thanks Windy bob!

[windybob]

You're welcome. Don't get the babbitt too thin. Try a 1/2 round file on the inside of the snout where the nut shows through.

I've done everything.

[mtblah]

Andrew , that is one clean 702 , where did all the rust go ?

[Adobejoe]

I had the unit and parts sandblasted …about $125,, but makes it clean and easy to work with. I will post a pic or two when together. The sails kind of dented but tail is good, only about 5 bullet holes throughout!

[Ron Stauffer]

By your first pic, your oil collector socket is seated very well, it isnt the problem and I would not mess with it. They are hard to get reseated. That end of the 730 bearing that goes in first is just an oil dam to direct the oil out to the end of the snout where the real bearing part is. I think you are hanging up on the tabs of babbitt on the outside from the pour and the edge of bearing top against the sheet metal that contacts the socket, Clean any babbitt against the edge of the sheet metal with a flat file.

You must have run across a rebuild narrative by AJ Wodack on the internet? He was the only one that I ever heard of that cut an oil slot in the top of the 752 bearing. No other rebuilders I know of do that as the main gears get the most oil of anything in the gear box. Your main gear shaft looked like it had been run dry with those circular rings?. You do want those main gears tight on the shaft and aligned with a square. The retaining pins can go in easily with the gear teeth not being in good alignment.

It is hard to tell in the pics but it looks like there is wear on the snout ring between the oil collector and case? It wears the most on the top or 12 oclock position and the wear tapers down on each side to 9 and 3 oclock. You can measure with a caliper at 9 and 3 compared to 6 and 12 to see how much it is worn. The inside of the hub should have a noticeable lip on the inside where it rides on this ring of the snout. If it needs built up , it needs done before the 730 goes in. AJ's article never covered this but it is critical as the oil can run out the hub easier than getting returned by the oil collector if there is wear.

I hope you got a new key for in the small gears? That one shows that there has been movement between the small gears and keyway of the shaft. The small gears need to be tight on the shaft. Dakota provides a somewhat oversized key in their rebuild kit to account for being put into a used shaft and small gears. A drive in fit is what they refer to as an interference fit of the key. Making the small gears as tight on the shaft as possible makes them last longer and overcomes the 702 shortcoming to the 602 that had small gears pinned tight to the shaft.

Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO

[Adobejoe]

Ron, Thank you. I have seen the U tube narrative by AJ out of Texas. I will file and get it to clear. I checked diameter in end of snout and looks consistent all around. Will spend a bit more time on it this weekend.

BTW. Lived in Palisade (orchard)while attending college in Glenwood Springs and Ft Collins and worked in GJ 1977-1984 when black Sunday forced me out. Have old family roots in Ouray/Portland area from mining days, and bought an old 1946 Chevy farm truck from Mr. Jackson of Olathe. You live in a nice part of the world!

Andy Rose
Cody, WY

[Ron Stauffer]

You mentioned the ring at snout end but it is the ring between the collector and the case. A screwdriver is your ready reference for location

snout ring.jpg

The snout ring wears only on the top because of the weight of the wheel just as the 730 bearing only wears on the bottom.

And inside the hub is the corresponding surface that it contacts to keep the oil pooled in the snout oil chamber to be returned by the oil collector

hub ring.jpg

Your case is from likely the 1940s based on some subtle differences in the casting around the snout ring. I have seen some very late 30s thru early 50s but most in the 40s, very common.

The CO AJ only ever did written articles called Rebuilding the 702. He was way east on CO plains close KS but has since moved closer to health care around Bennett. Articles were written around the time I started on windmills 20 years ago.

I have a windmill I service in August of every year in the middle of a peach orchard of Palisade, wonder why? There is something about the fruit that is raised where there is intense sun, snow melt irrigation water and cool nights. Even tho we are losing ag land in the valley to houses, the Palisade peaches, Cedaredge apples, Paonia cherries, Olathe sweet corn and San Luis produce is the best I have encountered in travels.

Ron

[Adobejoe]

Ron, you are right there is almost 1/16” less diameter on th snout ring top to bottom. How to fix? Built up somehow? Success with babbit bearing, but now small gears too tight on shaft. You can see scratch marks from original install. Sanding with 800 grit. Might add these gears came from separate windmill. I am trying to get one good out of three machines. Also, long set key is put in after shaft/hub seated or install while sliding hub on? I can see getting this together in align and tight is not so easy. It almost seem a hydraulic pressure might be the ticket. I hope lots of lube and a block of wood and hammer might get it seated and aligned.

Andy
Cody, WY