Furling a Windmill Question

[PaulV]

Button arms. Longer than standard can be had from Aermotor.

You can also weld a regular 6 sided nut on the end of the arm that hits the brake adjuster/spring. I would try this first.

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[CTXmiller]

Not my photo, but something like this or with a nut like Paul said.

[Windcatcher530 Dan]

Between me and my brother we have three early 602s up in the air on towers.all have original brake bands just metal and original upper and lower furling parts and have no problem.We have no 702s. Was the original brake system better?

[Mister Ed]

A lot of these guys fix more mills than I do, but I always thought a lot of the brake issues is due to slop in the lower furl lever mechanism (the holes for the rivets wear). A tenth or two wear on those rivet holes and your upper furl ring is going up .25" to .5" (or more) less than it used to.

So, to take up that loss of upward push on the brake and tailbone castings, they use the longer 528(?) upper furl arms that Paul mentioned. Or install the bolt on the brake casting (to take up space there).

Or the other option to really do it right, is to replace or repair the lower furl lever. There is available a 609S. The S indicates that it is split and that can be installed with the mill on the tower. I happen to have just opened a box I received yesterday with one in it.

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[Ron Stauffer]

Worked late today so your answer was mostly covered. Longer button arms are 1/4 longer and are available thru Aermotor, Dakota and Muller.

First, if your furl lever is down against the mast base bolts, that is all you can get.

Second, the welded nut on the brake arm is easier but will not pull the tail quite fully. We use a 1/2" welded nut out at the tip of the brake arm and only weld on the outside perimeter. We keep these on the service truck as well as very short 1/2 bolt that can be turned in to the nut if the nut isnt enough. I have also seen rancher done a 5/8 or 3/4 nut with a hole drilled thru on the sides with attached bailing wire wired to the spring of the brake band. These held up

Third, i have seen rancher modified button arms where the arm was cut and the correct sized ID pipe was sleeved on top to lengthen a 1/4 and then welded.

Fourth, longer button arms keeps the tail in where it should be and puts even pressure on the furl ring. Better fix.

Fifth, a hub that leaks oil will fix the squeak of the brake band. Be thankful yours is a squeak. More often I describe it as an elephant in heat which most think that is appropriate nomenclature

Sixth, Jesse Zwiebel who had worked at Aermotor under Guy but originally started in well service in NE once said "I never replaced a brake band working in the field but at Aermotor we sell lots of brake bands". So most want a brake that works.

Seventh, hang 1000' of sucker rod on the pump rod and the brake works even better without adaptation

Ron

[Mister Ed]

Fifth, a hub that leaks oil will fix the squeak of the brake band. Be thankful yours is a squeak. More often I describe it as an elephant in heat which most think that is appropriate nomenclature

[mtblah]

Bill Schuler, see how smart these real windmill guys are !
Many years of experience & shared knowledge, thanks guy's !
Mike B
New Braunfels TX

[Bryon]

If the wind is gusty and/or variable when you hear the brake "slipping", that is the windmill's way of letting off some pressure that the wind is putting on the wheel until the tail turns the edge of the blades into the wind. No repair necessary. That is what you want it to do. If it didn't turn a little bit (and make that noise) there would be potential for damage.

[Windy Bill]

I checked out the brake band today and found it to be making the squealing sound. I moved the band a bit and tightened the nut a bit. The squealing stopped. I think I will replace the whole band as the small spring looks rusty. The small rod that goes through the bracket is worn halfway through.

[Mike]

Adding on to an old post... I have an A702 in the air and running great but does not furl enough (I think??? - not parallel to wheel). And the brake does not apply enough to stop the wheel. It used to, maybe 6 months ago so I think there has just been some wear - possible because it's not furling enough and slippage. Feel free to comment on any of my assumptions or observations. So... I want it to furl more and apply the brake more. This post has a lot of great information. But a few questions:
1) If I replace or rebuild (per the great instructions) the 609 furling mechanism, would I still need the longer 528 furling arms or are they to compensate for wear in the furling linkage?
2) On the 528 furling arms, there is the heavy wire piece that attaches between a hole in the middle of the arm and the end of the arm opposite the button. What is this wire for? It looks like they may be tough to remove 30 ft. in the air. I don't have a split upper furl ring.
3) I have two lower furl rings - one is split and the other isn't. Was there a change along the way?
Thanks in advance!