Pick up where I left off. I can see the bearings are totally rusted up, I get the idea that the head has been under water for some time. We can still fix it, so don't dispair too much. The easy part is over, now we can get to the meat and potatoes of the matter. When I first learned about windmills, about half of the dozen or so of the heads I learned on were just like yours. So I learned the hard way. After dealing with mills like that, nothing else, ( or at least no other mill heads) bother me much. So this will be a rough lesson, but a lesson it will be.
Tha sleeve in the snout will collapse a bit if you drive a small punch or chisel in between it and the nose. Once it comes loose it will come out. It's just rusted to the snout. Nothing now holds it in. You will most likely not get the shaft to turn. It is rusted to the shaft and bearings so bad that it all is virtually one piece now. You will need to purposely destroy parts to get the rest of it apart. However, in the longrun, it will be a constuctive destruction. It IS needed to clean the rest of the case out. If you will notice, there is babbitt on the top of the pedastal, where the big gear shaft sits. This babbitt is NOT a bearing, but what it does is to get the bullgear shaft in just the right place. It may have an alternate purpose, maybe to stop electrolosis, or be a cusion, but whatever. Do NOT wreck it with heat, or hammering , etc. It's the only babbitt in the entire mill.
Do you have a cutting torch? Do you have a sawzall? from here on out, we will proceed with the major operation and dis-assembly.
Dempster Aunu-Oiled Rebuild
Re: Dempster Aunu-Oiled Rebuild
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
Re: Dempster Aunu-Oiled Rebuild
I’ll give it a try. I have a torch and sawzall.
Re: Dempster Aunu-Oiled Rebuild
ok. let me know when you get that sleeve out. I will be out this morning, but will check back this aft.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
Re: Dempster Aunu-Oiled Rebuild
No luck removing sleeve. Looks frozen to shaft.
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Re: Dempster Aunu-Oiled Rebuild
Let me make a drawing. I'm like the Terminator. I'll be back.....
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
Re: Dempster Aunu-Oiled Rebuild
OK, here we go with getting the rest apart. This is where you will waste parts for the greater good. Mainshafts are easy to make. Spacers should not be an issue.
The blue arrow shows the only babbitt in the head. It is not a bearing, but spaces the bullgear shaft properly. Stay away from it with the torch. It is held in by little nails too. Sometimes they fall out, but if you push around on it, you can see if it's loose or not.
The yellow arrows are where you can cut through the mainshft to start getting things on the way. On each side of the roller bearing are tube spacers that space the gears out properly. You will waste these spacers and the mainshaft. They may be of equal size, on the 6 footer one is longer than the other, but on 8 foot mills, they are equal. Not sure on a 10 ft. measure them anyway.
If the pinion closest to the snout becomes loose, due to the heat of cutting, good. However the spacer on the shaft might be rusted along with the gear, and neither will budge. If that's the case, then cut with a sawzall between the front pinion gear and the cast oil spiral. they do touch each other, but you can still cut between them. Trying to save the gears, as they appear decent. What this cutting will do is to free up the end of the shaft with the gear on it, and the front gear so it comes out. On a 6 footer, you can pull the front pinion through the snout, an 8 footer you cannot. I doubt a 10 footer pinion gear will come thru the snout also.
Now you have room to take the bearing out of the case web. It is installed from the front. You should be able to put a long rod in and hit whats left of the shaft in the bearing, and knock it out the front side. Of course if it's rusted in the outer race, but may or may not come out seperate from it. The outer bearing race on the back side, is held in place by a large snap ring in the case web. No need to take out this large snap ring. It's ther to keep the race from going towards the back of the case. Clean the bearing cone, and the outer race if you can to see the numbers on it. Same bearing goes in the front of the snout, but you will destroy that one. Try to get a measurement on the length of the mainshaft before cutting it. Once you get this done, then you are ready for the front end.
The blue arrow shows the only babbitt in the head. It is not a bearing, but spaces the bullgear shaft properly. Stay away from it with the torch. It is held in by little nails too. Sometimes they fall out, but if you push around on it, you can see if it's loose or not.
The yellow arrows are where you can cut through the mainshft to start getting things on the way. On each side of the roller bearing are tube spacers that space the gears out properly. You will waste these spacers and the mainshaft. They may be of equal size, on the 6 footer one is longer than the other, but on 8 foot mills, they are equal. Not sure on a 10 ft. measure them anyway.
If the pinion closest to the snout becomes loose, due to the heat of cutting, good. However the spacer on the shaft might be rusted along with the gear, and neither will budge. If that's the case, then cut with a sawzall between the front pinion gear and the cast oil spiral. they do touch each other, but you can still cut between them. Trying to save the gears, as they appear decent. What this cutting will do is to free up the end of the shaft with the gear on it, and the front gear so it comes out. On a 6 footer, you can pull the front pinion through the snout, an 8 footer you cannot. I doubt a 10 footer pinion gear will come thru the snout also.
Now you have room to take the bearing out of the case web. It is installed from the front. You should be able to put a long rod in and hit whats left of the shaft in the bearing, and knock it out the front side. Of course if it's rusted in the outer race, but may or may not come out seperate from it. The outer bearing race on the back side, is held in place by a large snap ring in the case web. No need to take out this large snap ring. It's ther to keep the race from going towards the back of the case. Clean the bearing cone, and the outer race if you can to see the numbers on it. Same bearing goes in the front of the snout, but you will destroy that one. Try to get a measurement on the length of the mainshaft before cutting it. Once you get this done, then you are ready for the front end.
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Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
Re: Dempster Aunu-Oiled Rebuild
the next step should be the final one. Then you can start cleaning things up, and getting what you need to re assemble things.
Yellow arrow shows the spacer / collar / insert that spaces the distance between the outer bearing race, and the front plate. On later models, this spacer is made ONTO the front plate. Yours is seperate, obviously. Cut here, and you should be able to knock both sides out. There is a natural notch at the bottom, no need to cut that part. This notch ( red arrows) is where the setscrew comes up through, to hold the front race from working forward. That's why taking out the setscrew is important. But you did that. Once the spacer is out, you can then see the outer bearing race. It goes in from the front, and comes out through the front. The race is rusted to the rollers, and the rollers are rusted to the inner race, and the inner race is rusted to the shaft. So as of now the whole thing is one rusty mass. You will need to cut through the balls, and outer race ( maybe on 2 places) and that mess should start falling out. The blue arrow shows the rollers. all these and the outer race need to be chunked out of the snout. Once these are out, the rest of the mainshaft and item will come out with it. Keep in mind, there is a heavy spring on the mainshaft pushing on the front bearing some. It is a limited push due to a force-fit washer on the mainshaft, but heating things with a torch will cause the force-fit washer to loosen, and spring and all will push the bearing forward. However, it's much of a push. Just be a little careful. I've not worked on a 10 foot, so I'm not sure about some things.
Yellow arrow shows the spacer / collar / insert that spaces the distance between the outer bearing race, and the front plate. On later models, this spacer is made ONTO the front plate. Yours is seperate, obviously. Cut here, and you should be able to knock both sides out. There is a natural notch at the bottom, no need to cut that part. This notch ( red arrows) is where the setscrew comes up through, to hold the front race from working forward. That's why taking out the setscrew is important. But you did that. Once the spacer is out, you can then see the outer bearing race. It goes in from the front, and comes out through the front. The race is rusted to the rollers, and the rollers are rusted to the inner race, and the inner race is rusted to the shaft. So as of now the whole thing is one rusty mass. You will need to cut through the balls, and outer race ( maybe on 2 places) and that mess should start falling out. The blue arrow shows the rollers. all these and the outer race need to be chunked out of the snout. Once these are out, the rest of the mainshaft and item will come out with it. Keep in mind, there is a heavy spring on the mainshaft pushing on the front bearing some. It is a limited push due to a force-fit washer on the mainshaft, but heating things with a torch will cause the force-fit washer to loosen, and spring and all will push the bearing forward. However, it's much of a push. Just be a little careful. I've not worked on a 10 foot, so I'm not sure about some things.
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Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
Re: Dempster Aunu-Oiled Rebuild
That's a lot to take in and I appreciate your input. I'll see what I can accomplish following your lead. Again, thanks for your help.
Re: Dempster Aunu-Oiled Rebuild
There's no time limit or anything. Sometimes I need to re-read something several times. But I'm not the sharpest crease in a pair of wranglers either.
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
Re: Dempster Aunu-Oiled Rebuild
Well, I did it! I guess when driving on the outer race, the snout cracked. Is welding an option?
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