Stop leak?

[LoTec]

I'm rebuilding an Aermotor B602. Manufacture date 1922. Cupped turntable, drain on bottom front of the gearbox. No plugs to drive out pinion pins. No U-bolt holes in hub.

i have the motor disassembled, have done needed repairs and am preparing to reassemble. I did a bit of welding on the hub to repair the worn spoke vee notches, and had to grind my welds smooth. I stood the hub on end, shaft up, and poured some mineral spirits inside the hub, intending to swish it around to try to flush out any grindings that may have gotten inside.

To my dismay I discovered that a wee stain of mineral spirits were visible on the outside front of the hub, apparently having seeped out around the shaft. Hmmm. I imagine this could mean there will be oil leaking here when the mill is up and running. (Although I don't recall seeing signs that this was going on when I took the mill down... but then, the motor was not exactly well lubricated at that time.)

The shaft is tight and well anchored, not at all loose in the hub, and shows no signs of having been bent. The outside end is thoroughly peened. The end of the key is a bit recessed below the surface of the hub. I can't see any gap or crack around the key, but that's where I suspect the leak is coming from.

I am thinking about putting the plug in the hub, filling it with water, adding some radiator stop leak, then putting the hub over a torch and boiling the water for a while, to try to seal the seepage. Then I'll probably put several coats of epoxy over the outer end of shaft and hub.

Anybody have a better idea?

[Windcatcher530 Dan]

Don't know if it's a better idea but you might want to try JB weld on the outside of the Hub where it's leaking just a thin coat.

[LoTec]

JB Weld is the kind of epoxy i was speaking of.

[CTXmiller]

I’d think mineral spirts is pretty thin stuff and can penetrate tighter areas much better than 10w oil. Plus having the hub shaft up, gives it better opportunity to leak as the minerals spirts is pooled in the hub compared to how the hub will be positioned in actual operation. Something minimal like JB weld, like Dan said, or gasket maker should work. It might not leak if you did the same test with 10w oil pooled in the hub with the shaft up.

[Windcatcher530 Dan]

LoTec I believe radiator stop leak only works under pressure !!

[windybob]

I usually weld the shaft to the outside of the hub. If it's tight, JB would likely work. Remember the oil does not fill the hub. It drips in, and the scraper puts in right back in when there is enough for the scraper to pick it up. You could do the JB anytime. Maybe try first, then if needed. If so, you could do that on the tower, however it won't hurt anything to put it on anyway.

[LoTec]

Maybe try first, then if needed. If so, you could do that on the tower, however it won't hurt anything to put it on anyway.

I just purchased some radiator stop leak and will try that tomorrow, and then JB Weld as well. This mill is for a customer so I certainly do not want to wait until the mill is on the tower to find out if it is leaking oil.

[windybob]

I would not use stopleak.