Preserving wood towers.

[Lake Seldom]

Not that long ago there was a post (now I cant seem to find it) where the discussion revolved around preserving and maintaining wooden towers. Someone gave their "recipe " for what to spray on the wood. I think it was 50/50 linseed and turpentine? If someone could clarify or correct me I would appreciate it. Thanks.

[Mister Ed]

I wouldn't think BLO and turp would be good for outside.

Its my favorite finish for cherry ... but very prone to watermarks (indoors) and needs a good rubdown/reoiling a time or two a year.

[Windcatcher530 Dan]

Years ago I don't think they treated them with anything but paint or let them age naturally. Hemlock is one of the better woods to age naturally I found out just my opinion.

[IvanBlock]

Yes Chris you are correct, 50% boiled linseed oil and 50% turpentine. I use this mixture on wood bearings, wood wheel arms, shut off handles or whatever wood parts you might have. I apply 3 or maybe even 4 coats before saturation is reached, depending on what kind and how aged the wood is. Repels water like a duck but has to be reapplied once or twice each year. Using it on a complete tower I would think might get a little labor intensive over the years. I've built many wood towers using everything from treated pine to white cedar and always let them age naturally. If they are built so they can dry out properly they'll last a long time...

[Lake Seldom]

Thanks Ivan! I am working on a tower that was built a few years back out of cca or acq treated wood. Replacing some wood with new (which has sat outside for some time) so both old and new has dried and should soak up your "recipe" rather well. I have it in the shop now on its side and plan on treating it before pulling it out and standing it back up. I will try and post some pics as I progress.

[Mister Ed]

Wow, that really surprised me.

I built a cherry rack for my wife to use in her weaving endeavors that I have to get the final coat of linseed & turp mix on later this week.

[windmillerman]

I have used copper sulfate, pond weed killer, on my cypress blades, CCA was copper sulfate, chrome arsenic..., the last two where even better but....gone now. used to be able to buy penta. gone now, used to get creosote from road tar.. no more. CS will make paint adhere less. Found blades last longer if not sealed to notched wood, dry is better...also found out black plastic survives longest. I Use treated lumber for towers and arms blades etc...the reason it is sold the most for such use. BLO was used on model T wood wheels, turpentine is the rich in "rich pine".