The new guy with an F&W project

[bhuggins@netzero.net]

Good morning one and all, I am brand new to this group and have a brand new first time ever project. I recently acquired "after years of looking" a model 37 F&W windmill. I found it in the central part of Washington state, near Grand Coulee Dam. I have never had any dealings with a windmill just knew that I was going to get my hands on one someday that didn't require a bucket load of CASH. So when I got the call from friend that he had found one I came running! The owner was clearing the ground it was on for a new crop and wanted it gone, well with several friends a tractor and some excavating we got it down and home. It looks to be very complete except for some reason the fan was off it "not broken" and laying about 30' away buried in 10" of dirt and grass for lord only knows how long. "thus the excavating" My only guess is that someone wanted the hub off it for something, or it broke and they took it down and never repaired it ??? But just guessing and the owner did not know? So my quest begins. I will need to replace a couple of the tower pieces of angle that were buried underground but that looks easy, It's that hub? I am searching for a hub for it. Since I am new to this world I was hoping maybe someone had some info for me on my quest to complete one of my dreams? No I am not selling it, I just want to put it up on my property and enjoy it. Thank you all in advance for any help.

[bhuggins@netzero.net]

looking for parts and advice on an old F&W windmill

[windybob]

A common problem with the 8 ft Star Zephyr was poor oiling for the front bearing, there for the bearing went bad, chewing the mainshaft off, therefore bye-bye wheel (fan). The hub would also grind down.
There is information here in the library section, that you can review, and start the learning process. The Star 37 was introduced in 1937, ergo the model. The Star 24 likewise, and they are similar. Made by Flint and Walling Mfg in Indiana. F/W mills were sold all over the country. That was the last model they made before going out of business after the war.
It would be nice if someone would have a bunch of those hubs recast, i, myself could use one. The 8 foot size mill was probably the most popular. Measure across the wheel to make sure. The entire tail assembly should be around 8 ft also.

Take lots of notes and pictures to help remember things about disassembly and reassembly. Take your time, use LOTS of penetrating oil, and be careful, as thin cast iron parts break easily with too big of a hammer.

Ask questions, post pictures, and explain your worst windmill nightmare. lol Don't worry, we all have one.

[Mister Ed]

Made by Flint and Walling Mfg in Indiana. F/W mills were sold all over the country. That was the last model they made before going out of business after the war.

What Windy said, except an inconsequential note that F&W did not go out of business, they just dropped the windmill line. They are still in business (still in Kendallville, In) and making water system components (Pumps etc).

Also, Windy forgot to mention ... we like pics.

An alternate way to determine size is to look at the casting numbers:
xx537 or x537 = 5'
xx737 or x737 = 7'
xx837 or x837 = 8'
xx073 or x037 = 10'
xx237 or x237 = 12'
xx637 or x637 = 15' (not a typo).

[63markB]

Welcome sir!

[Todd]

Welcome to the forum! The model 37 had a tapered machine key in the hub and mainshaft, and the hub had a 1/2-13 setscrew 90 degrees to the key. This worked fine until the setscrew worked loose, then the tapered machine key would walk out of the front of the hub and the wheel and hub assembly would fall off. I drill and tap the ends of the main shaft and put a washer on the front to keep things where they belong. Red loctite is always a good idea for these setscrews also.

[windybob]

Thanks Ed. I forgot about that. I even have a book on their history.

[Kenneth]

As a note, the pinion gears have a woodruff key as well as a set screw. There is enough
clearance in the gearbox to slide the gears outward enough to remove the woodruff keys.
The bull gears can be removed by removing the (2 ) 3/4" rods that are vertical in the gearbox.
Then there is a bolt that will drop through the drain hole after the square nut is removed
inside the gearbox. That will allow the bull gears to be removed as an assembly.
See pics for pinion gears. Don't hesitate to ask questions. Hope this helps.

IMG_20200517_095705.jpg

IMG_20200517_100745.jpg

Kenneth

[bhuggins@netzero.net]

thank you very much

As a note, the pinion gears have a woodruff key as well as a set screw. There is enough
clearance in the gearbox to slide the gears outward enough to remove the woodruff keys.
The bull gears can be removed by removing the (2 ) 3/4" rods that are vertical in the gearbox.
Then there is a bolt that will drop through the drain hole after the square nut is removed
inside the gearbox. That will allow the bull gears to be removed as an assembly.
See pics for pinion gears. Don't hesitate to ask questions. Hope this helps.
IMG_20200517_095705.jpg
IMG_20200517_100745.jpg

Kenneth

[bhuggins@netzero.net]

As a note, the pinion gears have a woodruff key as well as a set screw. There is enough
clearance in the gearbox to slide the gears outward enough to remove the woodruff keys.
The bull gears can be removed by removing the (2 ) 3/4" rods that are vertical in the gearbox.
Then there is a bolt that will drop through the drain hole after the square nut is removed
inside the gearbox. That will allow the bull gears to be removed as an assembly.
See pics for pinion gears. Don't hesitate to ask questions. Hope this helps.
IMG_20200517_095705.jpg
IMG_20200517_100745.jpg

Kenneth

thank you