It will be awhile until I am ready to install my F702 16ft mill but I have a couple questions.
I have seen videos showing how it is done, I have enough equipment to install the tower etc. but will have to hire a crane to install the mill.
SOO,, it is assembled on its nose, tail up, lifted by its tail until it clears the ground enough to pull it on the second winch line by the loop, sounds easy enough.
but I have two observations so far, if the tail and or the wheel moves at all it could be deleterious, causing injury/death and or severe damage to the mill. The wind is NEVER reliably "dead" or "calm" here on the coastal plains (why they are building those ugly wind turbines all over down here) and the crane company is going to do my job at the convenience of a machine strolling by my place going to or from a job, thus saving me the to and from yard charges.
Question, how is the tail and especially the wheel locked to where it cannot move.
I wrote Aermotor and a well meaning lady wrote me back and said to try and tighten the brake band, she obviously had no concept of what I was talking about as to begin with the brake would not even be set with the tail in this position and I have never seen a brake that would actually "lock" the wheel.
Also I am not even sure I have ever seen a way to "adjust" the brake band other than welding a nut to the push arm to "tighten" it up, I have also seen several brake band castings broken off of the housing suggesting maybe the brake band "locking" the wheel can be a problem.
F702 install
Re: F702 install
Vice grips, several large pair squeezing the brake band to the hub. I suppose you could rope the tail straight so it doesn’t furl.
Would love to see some photos of the install.
Would love to see some photos of the install.
Re: F702 install
My experience is that when you vice grip the brake to the hub, don't let it turn backwards at all. It will wrinkle up the brakeband in a second. Don't ask how I know.
I have no advice on the install on a biggie like this. I have never done one that big. Good luck, and safety first!
I have no advice on the install on a biggie like this. I have never done one that big. Good luck, and safety first!
Call Dan Benjamin for parts. P M me for the phone number. IF YOU TALK TO HIM, AND HE HELPS YOU, THEN BUY FROM HIM. IT CREATES GOOD KARMA.
Re: F702 install
mogman
all i can say is Ron Stauffer
Paul
all i can say is Ron Stauffer
Paul
Re: F702 install
Yeah it seems Ron probably does those in his sleep. He would be the one but Ken O-Brock put up a lot of mills in his time also. He might have a suggestion or two.
Re: F702 install
Run a come along from the tail (Z-bar where the buffer attaches) to the wheel (outer band) and snug it. Keeps tail open and blades from spinning.
Re: F702 install
You can see the come along if you zoom in (click on the photo and then click on it again)
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Re: F702 install
The come-along works very well. You also need it to pull the tailbone back against the buffer to hook the tail spring on. I use two that connect to the outer bands at the wheel arm connections at two o’clock and four o’clock.
Some other items to note:
To build the windmill with the nose down, you need something to hold the motor as you put the wheel arms and wheel on. A forklift with an extension works well.
It can be a bear to get the last wheel section bolted down. Don’t underestimate the time it will take to build the windmill.
If you don’t have two lines on the crane, you can hook the Z bar line to the crane boom to lift it up. Then use the winch line to roll it over. (You need to disconnect the Z bar line after you roll it over)
If you don’t have a manlift, think very carefully about your rigging and how you are going to disconnect everything in the air!
Take your time and don’t proceeded if you are not comfortable.
Don’t underestimate the weight, bulk and wind load of the big mills. You are not going to manhandle them, they are going to push back.
I have a few photos of the 12, 14, 16 and 20 foot in my photo gallery to help with perspective.
http://www.rockridgewindmills.com/photo ... -projects/
Kevin
PS: Decide early if you are going to be listed as the victim or eyewitness in the accident report, once destiny takes over, you cannot uncheck the box next to your name.
Some other items to note:
To build the windmill with the nose down, you need something to hold the motor as you put the wheel arms and wheel on. A forklift with an extension works well.
It can be a bear to get the last wheel section bolted down. Don’t underestimate the time it will take to build the windmill.
If you don’t have two lines on the crane, you can hook the Z bar line to the crane boom to lift it up. Then use the winch line to roll it over. (You need to disconnect the Z bar line after you roll it over)
If you don’t have a manlift, think very carefully about your rigging and how you are going to disconnect everything in the air!
Take your time and don’t proceeded if you are not comfortable.
Don’t underestimate the weight, bulk and wind load of the big mills. You are not going to manhandle them, they are going to push back.
I have a few photos of the 12, 14, 16 and 20 foot in my photo gallery to help with perspective.
http://www.rockridgewindmills.com/photo ... -projects/
Kevin
PS: Decide early if you are going to be listed as the victim or eyewitness in the accident report, once destiny takes over, you cannot uncheck the box next to your name.
Re: F702 install
To hold the gear box up you can also use the line from the lifting truck.
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Re: F702 install
We set mills and towers together on up to 14' only because I have been limited by the 5T rigs I have. I recently picked up a 6T and will be mounting it on a 2 ton IH truck. The 6T will do 6000# single line and the truck will be heavy enough to be stable. I would consider being on a platform whether removing or installing a head to be dangerous. If I have to either remove or install a head on an existing tower, I stay on the ground until the mill is at least started on the mast.
Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO
Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO